59676063700 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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Icemaker made some pretty sad cubes! Hollow, unfilled, or small cubes
Replacing the icemaker is pretty simple. Three screws, an electrical connector. Hardest part is getting to the icemaker since the freezer is below the refrigerator.
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Dana from ABINGTON, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Ice maker clicked CW and CCW, but did not make ice
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Louis from BASKING RIDGE, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Freezer not defrosting and making fridge run warm.
Super simple following the instruction video you posted. Thanks!
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Brent from PRESCOTT, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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water leaking into ice tray, frozen glob of ice
installed replacement ice maker kit. 1st removed power. next loosened 2 upper phillips screws. then removed lower phillips screw and lifted and removed old ice maker. released wiring connector and pulled entire unit out of freezer. then i reversed the procedure to install the old unit. check youtube for instructional videos.
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james from newfield, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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water into bin (big frozen chunks)
, to remove the inlet tube holder/guide gadget thingee: (1) remove the three Phlipscrews from the motor end of the housing. (2) pull the housing straight off the end. (3) remove two Philips screws in deep holes that hold the ice tray onto the motor housing. (4) this frees the ice tray assembly, which you have to pull out, freeing the rotating blades, from which (5) you slide the sxle out of the middle of the inlet-tube thingee, so (6) you can then remove the inlet gadget from the ice tray.
You then reverse these instructions to reassemble with the correct inlet gadget. The tricky part is the front cover that hides the ice-tray from view. That cover has a couple of ears that have to fit into mating holes in the motor housing before you replace the two deep-hole Philips screws that hold the tighten the ice-tray assembly back onto the motor housing.
So it's too bad they don't see the ice-maker assembly with all the knock-outs inplace, so you can knock out the one you want. Other than that, it would have been no more trouble than other people have reported in working in the tight space inside the freezer compartment.
You then reverse these instructions to reassemble with the correct inlet gadget. The tricky part is the front cover that hides the ice-tray from view. That cover has a couple of ears that have to fit into mating holes in the motor housing before you replace the two deep-hole Philips screws that hold the tighten the ice-tray assembly back onto the motor housing.
So it's too bad they don't see the ice-maker assembly with all the knock-outs inplace, so you can knock out the one you want. Other than that, it would have been no more trouble than other people have reported in working in the tight space inside the freezer compartment.
Parts Used:
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Roger from Mesa, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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The icemaker on the refrigerator had stoped working.
Repair was real easy, I had to remove several screws in the bottom of the icemaker module housing. The unit slide out with no problem there was a wire assembly that hat to be disconnected but this did not present a problem. The old module came out real easy after removing 4 screws and the replacement was not a problem to but in.
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Curtis from Blackwood, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
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The ice maker was leaking
I read the previous repair story and agree with the author that the screw behind the front piece was difficult to remove and re-install. If I had a magnetized nut driver I think it would have been easier. There were no installation instructions so I relied upon the repair experiences. The other two screws came out easily and I found the harness release easily and the harness was easy to reinstall.
I am not a good handyman but was able to install the new ice maker
I am not a good handyman but was able to install the new ice maker
Parts Used:
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Jay from Richardson, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Black flecks in the ice
I made use of instructions for other users, see 'My ice maker has been shedding.....' and they were very helpful. The one problem not covered - the instructions that came with the new icemaker said to 'remove the bearing and inlet from the old icemaker and install in the new icemaker', but gave no instructions for how to accomplish this.
The old inlet has a square opening in the back and a u-shaped knockout in the side. The new one has a round opening in the side and square knockout in the back)
After several attempts to remove them, I gave up and used the new inlet with the knockout removed. I did not attempt to cover the side opening and it worked fine that way - no leaks.
The old inlet has a square opening in the back and a u-shaped knockout in the side. The new one has a round opening in the side and square knockout in the back)
After several attempts to remove them, I gave up and used the new inlet with the knockout removed. I did not attempt to cover the side opening and it worked fine that way - no leaks.
Parts Used:
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Jon from Leander, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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non-stick coating detioration and water overflow becoming large ice chunks
Ice maker assembly required disconnection of the wire harness at the back of the freezer and the removal of 3 hex nuts. The assembly did not come with a new wire harness nor the rigid wire attached to the hinge that can be raised to stop production of ice. The wire harness was easy to disconnect from the old assembly by pressing in on a tab. The rigid wire attached to the hinge simply required pulling straight out of the hinge-hole (no need to twist, slide, or perform other contortions...it does require significant force to remove, but it does pull straight out). It was simple to attach it to the new ice assembly. Reinstalled the 3 hex nuts and wire harness plug and was good to go....after waiting several hours! I was worried at first because the unit did not immediately fill with water after I plugged the fridge back into the wall socket. However, after the freezer was cold enough, the water did run and I had my first ice dump within about 3 hours of finishing the installation. We have good ice again, and Partselect has excellent pricing and awesome delivery! I received the unit the day after ordering, and I had only paid the basic shipping! Thanks Partselect! Jeff
Parts Used:
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Jeffrey from Murphy, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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No ice
I removed the icemaker. One screw at the bottom and then unplug the electric. Remove the old motor from the face that has 3 screws holding it. Put the new motor in. A very simple job. I now have a full ice bin by the next morning.
Parts Used:
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GARY from WEST CHESTER, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Ice maker stalled out, made excessive noise trying to evacuate completed ice cubes
There are basically three screws that hold the unit in place on the inside of the freezer. Removing them is relatively easy, and the unit is replaced with the same three screws. You do have to use the formed metal wire from your old unit, so don't throw it out! You also have to use the wiring harness from your old unit.
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Mike from Clemson, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
Parts Used:
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Jeffrey from Lexington, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 5 people
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Heater was stuck on
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Jon from Helena, MT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Fridge running warm
The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..
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Charles from MT PLEASANT, SC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Replaced leaking ice maker after minor screwup!
Old ice maker leaking water and produced ice cubes with black inclusions. First, I removed old ice maker per video instructions. Transferred electrical cable, cover, and bail to new ice maker. First installation failed because I failed to make sure water tube correctly enter back of ice maker. No ice. Initially thought electrical cable wasn't firmly in place. Then I noticed frozen water dripping down back of freezer. A clue! Removed ice maker and reinstalled making sure water tube went through the hole in back of ice maker. Now the new ice maker works beautifully!
Parts Used:
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Jackson from Leesburg, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 3 people
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