59675239403 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Ice Maker would seem like it was the valve was leaking and Ice would build up at the rear of tray.
After listening to it cycle, (drop ice and fill) valve would open up again about 20 minutes later.
Over flowed and iceberg would form at rear.
Replaced icemaker unit and works fine now.

Took drawers out, inserted the rail and put the drawers back in and voila. Fixed.

1. shutoff water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws
6. put on water

Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit basically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.

It was great. We replaced the thermistor A little difficult to get to the thermistor but once we found it five minutes. My refrigerator seems happy but we will monitor it and see.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Took off door to ice maker. Unscrewed 1 nut. Slid out unit. Unplugged electrical connector. Unsrewed 3 nuts from bottom of old unit & attached mounting bracket to new unit. Reconnected electric connector. Slid back in. Put screw back in. Put icemaker door back on. Turned icemaker on. Ice in 20 minutes!

I was easily able to find the part using the online search. I order the part and it arrived in about two days. Installing the part meant pulling out the two crisper drawers, emptying the shelf above the crispers, removing two glass shelf plates, inserting the new part, replacing the glass plates, replacing the food on the shelf and sliding in the two crisper drawers. All in all, about 3 minutes.

replaced broked crisper pan with new pan

Removed door from slide bars with small nutdriver, pulled old gasket out of retaining slot, cleaned slot & area around it, pressed new gasket into place with fingers, relatively easy. Used hair dryer to make sure gasket was formed properly and contacted fridge unit eavenly.

To keep from having to pay the appliance repairman $100.00 for a diagnostic fee I just started replacing parts that were known for causing this problem. First I replaced the compressor switch and capacitor that didn't work so then I replaced the damper controller then I replaced the control board then I saw that the evaporator fan wasn't spinning so I replaced the evaporator fan motor and the bimetal defrost thermostat. That was the problem I wish I would have checked that first. But it works like new now.

This gasket is just friction fit into a molded groove. Easy to pull out and replace.
When I googled looking for how to.. all sites described unscrewing a keeper. None described that this (and maybe others) simply has the push-in design.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.