59672383412 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

Pulled the old frame out and set the new one in its place

I used the video step by step. The video showed complete process to swap out the motor. It was very simple to do.

Remove some shelving and have a towel handy. Opened water filter door to expose two 1/4” screws. Removed 2 screws. Placed my hands firmly on upper panel and gently pulled/tugged panel forward and slightly down. Disconnected roof lighting clip. Removed panel from frig. Disconnected both ends from solenoid fill valves by pressing in the colored locking piece to release tubing while pulling tube out. Cut zip ties and removed old leaking reservoir. I also removed the straight reservoir seeing as the part I replace was redesigned and the other one was not needed. Put new zip ties in place. Slid the new part into position and pressed the ends into the solenoid valves. You do not need to press in colored locking pieces, they will self lock. Secured with zip ties. Grabbed a container and filled it up with water through the door to fill and purge and check for leaks. Reconnect light clip, reinstalled top liner and snapped into place. Put screws in. Closed filter door. Took about 15 minutes. I did watch a you tube video prior to attempting this repair myself.

After removing the bin from the box and removing the protective grip I aligned the bin to the door and pushed down. Easy Peasey.
Ordered 2 bins waiting on the second now.

Just plugged it in

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Looked for the same repair on line by model number. I found it, watched the repair, then used those instructions to complete the repair on my refrigerator. The disassembly and reassembly took longer than actually replacing the part. It now works beautifully with NO leaks.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?