59669332010 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

just pop the old one out popped the new one in its replace.

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Talking with the service tech and youtube video it was a snap... Saved a service repair and a 25% parts mark up..