59669280012 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the freezer door, by loosening 4 screws and pulling upwards to disengage door from frame. Removed the top basket by pulling up on both slides on the gear shaft sides, note they have retaining tabs you must push in. once the slide / guards are up the top basket comes out. Remove the bottom basket. Remove to angled screws on the top tracks and remove. Remove 6 screws on bottom slides, 3 per side and slide out as a whole unit. Unplug the ice maker, remove 3 screws for it to come out. Note I cleaned mine while it was out with vinegar to remove the mineral build up on it. Remove the screws in the back panel, and pull it forwards. The top vent has 2 clips that hold it in and you will need to remove it prior to fully removing the plate. The plug for the icemaker needs to be removed also. Pull the back plate out. Once the plate is out you can see the fan and access it. Unplug the clips that hold the wiring harness secure. 2 screws to remove the fan assembly. Once fan assembly is out, disassemble it, then reverse assemble it with new parts and fire it up. Mine took right off and running like its brand new.

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

The video on the part select website with the Canadian gentleman was absolutely the best! My wife and I watched it and was able to accomplish the replacement with no surprises or issues. One tip that we could add is that the orientation of the temperature sensor was not specified in the video, but the slot seemed to work better for one orientation versus another. It has been a couple weeks since the repair and the refrigerator is working like it did when we first purchased it.

in stalled new circuit board an thermostat an was fixed

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

Unplugged fridge
Pulled light cover off
Used screwdrivers to press in on tabs holding control board cover.
Unplug wiring harnesses.
Snapped board in two.
Install in cover
Reattach wires
Done

Super simple following the instruction video you posted. Thanks!

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

Bought new crisper from Parts select followed directions on how to replace. Replaced in a bought 30 minutes.

I followed the video provided by PartsSelect and it was very good with almost every step you take. Pay particular attention to how the demonstrator stands relative to the frame and things will go a bit easier. There is one thing the video fails to do well and that is show you how the metal U-shaped rod is extracted. At best, the close-up gives you a clue rather than a sense of what is done and the verbal explanation of what it is you are trying to do with the screwdriver blade is unfortunately not detailed enough. I experimented as best I could with varying degrees of force and various positions but was taken by surprise when the rod suddenly was free and slid half-way out of the old frame. I still am not clear in my own mind what I did to free it, though I have my suspicions ;). Other than that step, the video took me through everything smoothly. One key - save everything from your old frame, you'll need it all!

got the new part, took the old part out and snapped the new part in! Very easy. Thank you.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!