59657082790 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I pulled the refrigerator out, and turned off the water valve at the wall. I then removed 3 screws at the bottom of the back panel so I could access the water inlet value. I compared the new part with the part on my refrigerator to make sure they were the same. They were.

Using a pair of adjustable pliers, and placing a small pan under it to catch the water in the line, I loosened and removed the water line.

I then removed the wires connected to the water inlet valve, noting how they were connected. I then removed the 2 screws holding the water inlet valve in place, and removed the old inlet valve.

I put the new inlet valve in place, and making sure to hook up the ground wire, replaced the 2 screws to hold the inlet valve in place. I reconnected the wires, and then the water line.

I turned the water supply on at the wall and checked for leaks. I then tried the water dispenser and it now worked perfectly. I tried it a few more times and then checked again for water leaks.

Replaced the 3 screw holding the back cover on, and pushed the refrigerator back into place.

Mission accomplished, and saving at least $75!

R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin

Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Replaced the part--
Door snaps loudly everytime it's opened or closed.
Correct replacement part and lubed with vaseline,

Repair man wanted $240.00 to fix this problem. I simply removed panel from bottom of back of refrigerator and disconnected two screws and the water and the part was free reconnected water and the two screws and done deal with a $40.00 part.

Removed Ice bucket. Removed two screws and removed front cover from old ice bucket, two more screws under cover to remove ice agitator. Installed ice agitator to new ice bucket, installed two screws holding it. Installed ice bucket front cover on new ice bucket with two screws. Put new ice bucket into freezer. Finished! That was easy!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

1. Unplugged the power cord 2. Took back cover off 3. Disconnected the wires to the valve 4. Disconnected the water plastic lines 5. Took the water valve out by removing (2) screws that hold it to the frame. 6. Installed the new water valve and folled the steps backwards. Working great and making a lot of ice !!!

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

I put in all new limit switchs. and put in a new water&icemaker valve. now it works great.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

Removed screws on back cover plate in Freezer, disconnected fan assembly, removed fan assembly, removed propeller from fan assembly, and transferred it to new motor, installed new assembly, reconnected electrical connections, screwed on back cover plate - Viola!

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg