59655652500 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

While investigating problem (at 11:30PM of course) I saw the overload burst into flames. Problem Identified! Easily found and ordered part. Next day delivery. Exact same part easily plugged in. Total refrigerator down time was less than 40 hrs.

Thanks,
Terry

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

I removed the front cover--just popped off with no trouble. Removed 2 screws at the bottom. Slid the broken part out and put the new one in place. Put in the two screws, replaced the fron cover AND Done!!!
BTW I am a 65 year old woman and the icemaker is like new.

Removed back access cover with quarter inch nut driver, unplugged wire harness, pulled old relay out & plugged in new one, reconnected wire harness, and reinstalled access cover. Piece of cake. (Shipping was very quick) ***Frig was only 3yr an 1 mounth old.*** Maytag - Dependable Huh?

Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

I removed the door dispencer cover and located the control board. I unpluged the wire connector and water dispence switch, laid down the cover and removed the control board. I snapped in the ned board, reconnected the wire terminal and put the dispencer cover back on the door.

While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.

turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

Removed damper vent by hand and then unscrewed 2 visible screws that hold Damper Control Unit in place. After removing screws, the damper control unit is easy to remove by unplugging 2 electrical connectors by hand and connecting new unit the same way. Screw the panel and snap the vent back in place and you're done!! Piece of pie, easy as cake...Ha! Ha!

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

On the back of the refrigerator, I unscrewed and removed the lower-right panel. As I peeled the insulation off the panel, the insulation would disintegrate, so I used a vacuum-cleaner hose to remove most of the insulation. I removed the remaining adhesive with my fingers. I peeled the backing off the new insulation, and stuck it to the panel.

I had ordered two pieces of insulation, hoping to also replace the insulation behind the compressor, but removing the compressor was complicated and risky, so I returned the second piece of insulation.