59653462301 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

While investigating problem (at 11:30PM of course) I saw the overload burst into flames. Problem Identified! Easily found and ordered part. Next day delivery. Exact same part easily plugged in. Total refrigerator down time was less than 40 hrs.

Thanks,
Terry

Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

Looked on web to see problems with same model. Recieved new board, unplugged fridge,took off cover inside fridge top left,took old board out, unplugged wires from old board and plugged new board in, installed cover and plugged fridge into wall outlet.

While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.

First I removed the existing copper ice maker line and then installed a plastic line. I then tried the appliance, with no change. I then removed and replace the primary water valve and then tested that as well. There was no change in the outcome. So I removed and replaced the secondary water valve and tested that as well and I noticed a significant change in water pressure, and in volume.

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

Followed the YouTube video linked to the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor I purchased. The repair was just as easy as the technician in the video said it would be. Removed the back panel, remove the clamp, worked the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor off the electrical prongs and replace it with the new one. After I reassemble the refrigerator, it was fully operational. Very easy to do and only required a few tools.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Took everything off the door then removed the door from the refrigerator. The old cam unit was completely gone and the shaft for the cam was digging into the door. Installed the new cam and shim and put the door back on. Worked perfect.
Much easier than my wife and I thought it would be. We're both in our sixties and have never done anything like this before. Thank you.

I pulled off the plastic shield from the front of the ice bucket. This exposed the two screws that I needed to remove to disassemble the ice crusher mechanism. Once the screws were removed, I was able to remove the helix and replace the end cap that was broken and place it in the new ice bucket. If I would have known it was this easy, I would have changed this out a year ago, instead of doing without crushed ice through the door for so long. Thanks PartSelect. com! I am a customer for life!

We unplugged the refrigerator, used a knife to pry out the old switch. Cut the extra prong off of the new switch and connected the switch to the wire connectors. Slid the switch back into place plugged the refrigerator back into the outlet and . . . . . . Wah, lah, the light and switch worked again. We washed and then simply slid the vegetable crisper into the holder and replaced the one that had broken. This was a really great experience and it was quick and easy to fix on our own.!

First, I removed the bucket and drained all the ice from it. Then I took the ice bucket out and lifted off the cover of it which exposed the teeth that grind up the ice. I then removed these in succession and placed on my table so I could make sure I put back together appropriately. Once I had the bucket with everything off of it, I replaced and threaded the auger back through it so I could attach the end cap to it. Once that was in place, I put the parts back on the way I took them off. It really was a painless process and saved a ton of money versus calling a repair person. Definitely will use the service again. Very prompt delivery as had the parts 2-3 days after ordered. Well done.

I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.

Firts checked the parts received werer correct for the repair and the correct part numbers ordered. Then removed the ice bucket with the auger in bottom. Emptied ice from original bucket auger assembly. Checked out the removeal of the face cover for the bucket auger and removed it from clips that held it in place. Checked the specifications of the old ice bucket compaired to the new parts. Installed the aurger assembly into the new ice bucket and removed the two screws from the old unit to use in secure the auger assembly in the new bucket. The only tool needed was a 1/4 inch nut driver. Installed the face place on the new ice bucket auger assembly and tested the fit in the freezer. Ran test of the auger assembly without ice to ck for any misinstlled parts. Refilled the ice bucket with ice and tested with ice to complete the repair.