58971K0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

replaced them & working fine now....

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.

Easy enough. I had some help tightening the hoses to the inlet valve. I watched the video about how to repair and it was straight forward and easy to follow. You'll need a bit of strength to tighten the hoses to the dual water inlet valve. Be precise when lining up the threads of the hose and the inlet valve...don't force it...find it...if it goes on crooked it will strip the threads and wreck it. Recommend purchasing some plumbers tape to wrap on the the threads of the Dual Water Inlet Valve. Fixed the dripping water problem immediately.

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

1) Researched internet for parts to make repair
2) Tested the cold side to make sure the only problem was the valve.
3) Ordered part from PartSelect
4) Made repairs after going to hardware store to purchase a set of torx bits to loosen the front panel so I can replace the dual valve assembly.

Only tools needed #1 Phillips and #15 Torx

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

Pulled front panel of washing machine, removed hose, installed new hose, and wipped up water.Simple!!!

The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.

Followed the U-Tube video, but...don't waste your time trying to remove the spanner nut with a wrench. Just cut off with a grinder. Second, the hub was locked solid on the transmission shaft. Ended up cutting that off with a grinder also. Would have same myself a few hours of work and lots of frustration if I just cut them off from the beginning instead of trying to remove per the video. Otherwise, very doable, and not a bad job to do yourself.

Followed the video guidance supplied by this site