58714114401 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.

Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!

My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!

Alighned the bracket and pushed in.

The Spray arm and the support had come off during operation and subsequently melted on the heating element. This was our fault, as a knife had slipped through the lower dish-rack and acted as a ramp to launch the spray arm as it came around. The support was a simple 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until it clicked into place, drop the strainer basket into position around the support, them push the spray arm into place until the catches snap over the retaining ring molded into the support. All told, about 10 minutes, max.

One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.

1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.

Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

The latch on the soap dispenser got worn out over the past few years on the dishwasher. I tried just puting the detergent into it and running it as usual. The detergent was added Immediatley.. missing the proper timing that would normally dispense it properly. As a result the dishes were not coming out clean and lacked the shiny clean quality we were accustomed to . I ordered the right part, got it quickly and put it in..and were back to doing dishes and having them come out the right way...spotless and clean like they should.

I ordered the replacement racks to replace the rusted ones that had been in my original Fridigaire. I had to take the wheels off the old Upper Rack and attach them to the new upper rack, which was quite easy since they just simply came off by hand with a little bit of pressure. I also needed to take off the spray arm & spray arm funnel in order to attach them to the new Upper Rack assembly. I had to unscrew the spray arm funnel then unattach (without tools) the base of the spray arm from the upper rack. Then I could simply reattach the spray arm base by hand and re-screw on the spray arm funnel onto the base that had been attached to the new upper rack. I also had to take off the Shelf from the old rack and attach it to the new one (which was easily done with a little bit of hand pressure to unattach the Shelf from the old rack). All of this was much easier than I expected it to be, and much easier than I'm explaining I'm sure! I was able to do these rack switches without any tools which was great!

10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

No repair, just replaced the lower rack. Your service is awesome. I received my shipment next day. Thank you so much. I will definitely use your service again.