58714008003 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed eight screws holding front panel to door; placed blanket below it beforehand based on tip read in another person’s post. Removed two screws holding switch in place and then transferred four wire connectors one at a time. Replaced latch assembly with two screws. Replaced front door panel by reinstalling eight previously removed screws then did a load of dishes.

I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.

I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.

Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.

Removed the bottom panel on the unit (2 screws hold it on) and pulled the dishwasher out about 4"--after turning off electricity to the unit. Removed the broken spring and the old linkage and replaced them with the new parts. Pushed the diswasher back into place, and replaced the bottom panel. Turned on the electricity and the diswasher door is "good as new." This is quite simple to do; just takes patience.

I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet space (two screws) and manually replaced both springs. I replaced one spring first to see if there would be an improvement when the second new spring was installed. There was much better tension once the second new spring was added.That is why changing both springs is recommended. This was very easy.
Changing the gasket was scary because I thought the the whole door would have to be taken apart. You know nothing ever goes back together the same. I feared that I would create an even bigger leak than what I had. Taken the door apart didnt work for me, so I just pulled the old gasket by hand and pressed in the new one. I made sure that it was seated correctly. Voila no leak.
The dishwasher is running as good as new.
I ordered these parts on Friday morning. They were on my door step Monday morning,
I highly recommend ordering from this site.

Replaced door switch as follows: (1) turned off circuit breaker powering unit; (2)removed six screws holding front control panel cover to chasis and pulled cover out slightly to expose switch; (3) labelled four connectors on wires to switch with marking pen; (4) disconnected the four wires: (5) removed two screws holding switch to chasis; (6)installed new switch with the two screws; (7) reconnected the four wires; (8)replaced cover panel and (9) turned circuit breaker back on.

Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

Only took me 5 sec, just push it in. Good as new. Thanks for the fast deliver .

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, and ran to diagnose the problem. Drain pump ran, but circulating motor did not. Ordered the replacement circ pump / motor assy, and slid the washer back in its hole.
When the new motor arrived, I slid it back out, disconnected everything, and drained the water from the bottom. Then I tipped the washer on its side, removed the old motor and installed the new one following included instructions. I did have to use the new wiring harness, and found the new one had only two leads where the original had three. I connected the blue and white leads, and left the original green loose.
All in all, it was an easy repair that could be done by anyone with a basic set of skills.

The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job

Pulled the broken one off, snapped the new one on.

Turned off power to dishwasher.Used a screw driver to rermoved the outer top of door.Used star wrench to remove door latch.Repalced wire for wire on door latch.Reinstalled door latch with star wrench.Reinstalled outer top of door with screw driver.Turned power on.Tryed door lath.Operation is Ok.Ran dish washer.No leaks.Operation is OK.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

Removed 6 screws, pulled the front cover forward, removed the old door latch, installed the new latch, replaced the screws, DONE! Took about 10 minutes. The new door latch works to open and close the door, and the dishwasher runs fine when the door is closed. However, the new door latch does not lock the door into place like the old one did. I didn't remove the screws and loor latch assembly again, but there must be a difference between the old part or the new part. And I noticed that the old part number and the part number of the replacement part are not the same, although the website indicated that it was the correct part for my model.

Our dishwasher sat in a warehouse for a year after our move from CA to TX. When I finally installed it, there was some sort of white mineral deposit that had built up on the heater element. I didn't notice it back in CA. I tried to get as much as possible off but it kept building. So I purchased a new heater element. It's been in for a few weeks and my wife thinks the build up is happening again.
To Repair;
Unscrew the dishwasher from the counter. They'll be one or two screws attaching the dishwasher on the underside of the counter.
Pull the washer out carefully.
Remove any dishes and the bottom rack.
Tilt washer on it's side.
Remove wire connections to heater element (They slide right off but make sure to remember which one goes where)
Unscrew the nuts that are holding the element on. I used some pliers. It wasn't difficult.
Remove old element and replace with new.
Reverse order.