58714002990 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

First point of leakage was the door. Turns out that a gasket at the bottom of the door functions as a wave trap. As the bottom sprayer spins it sprays against the door and creates a small wave of water this gasket was starting to disintegrate, it was letting water surge over the small tray at the doors bottom. Easy to replace just pull down and remove press fit on inside door bottom. Only when this was replaced did I find the real leak but not until I guessed at the tub seal as the leak. Very hard to see where the water really comes from! Turns out it was not the tub seal but a clip that holds the heater element got smashed down from a dropped dish rack at some earlier time and this caused the heat to increase at the clip and eventually heat the clip to extent it melted the tub directly under it. JB Weld to the rescue and we have a waterproof tub again. Well almost! The tub gasket resisted my best efforts to seat correctly and thus required a new tub gasket, still hard to seat but after 2-3 attempts we have a winner. Total cost about 50 bucks vs. 6-700 for a new unit. Wife is happy!!

I removed the kick panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. Then using a flashlight and a cross point screwdriver, I removed the thermostat from about the middle left. It requires a short screwdriver, but not quite as short as a stubby. I unplugged the wires, noting that one of them was a little burnt looking. The burnt looking connector was still okay. I then installed the new one, with the green dot on the thermostat having the slightly burnt looking connector. Then I ran a load of dishes and the dishwasher worked as it was supposed to. It has worked okay twice since then.

I watched several videos of people replacing this gasket easily, but we had trouble. The old one came out easily. The new one just slipped into the crack, but it kept going and ended up on the inside of the door. We ended up taking the outside panel off to get the gasket out. We tried to fit the thing into the slot, but it kept coming out the other side. I finally came across someone who had had the same trouble. By feel only, you can feel a slight ridge on the top side of the lower door and I had to press the gasket against that ridge. It was not a very noticeable ridge, but it holds the back (slot edge) against the door so that the gasket stays put. When we figured that out, the repair went smoothly. I am running the dishwasher now and so far, so good.

1 Removed 2 screws to remove door panel so as to access back of dispenser.
2 Unplugged 2 color-coded wires attached to dispenser
3 Removed 6 screws attaching the dispenser.

Reversed these 3 steps to install new unit.

Easy. Don't even think of calling the repairman.

Replaced upper wash blade and used screwdriver to pop off rail stops to slide rack all the way out to exchange

Followed the YouTube instructions. Loosened 4 screws took off the front door panel and removed the old door and installed the new one. The video was very helpful!

I read the instructions that others had posted and completed the repair in less than 5 minutes!

Pulled old gasket off with small hook. Replaced new gasket by pressing in with my fingers.

Turn off power. Took out screws holding control cover on, (left loose and hanging in the front of the door by the connector wires).Disconnected the two wires at the bottom of the switch. Removed two torx screws, pulled switch out. Reversed procedure to install new switch (which isan exact replacement). turned power back on, tested door latch, washer works perfectly again.

This was a dishwasher that my employer threw out due to the excessive time it was going to take getting the broken part - all of the appliance stores I contacted had them backordered. Since I'm a DIY and Internet savvy person, I decided to go to the Internet page and use the IPB to determine the correct part, and ordered it. I installed the dishwasher, and waited...
10 days after ordering the part, it came right to my door. Installation was very simple; remove 7 Phillips screws from the front panel to access the latch mechanism, remove the two Torx screws holding the latch assembly, disconnect the wires from the latch assembly, and do the reverse procedure to re-install. No latch alignment was necessary, just screw the assembly right back in place. (Yes, I made sure the power had been disconnected!) The door gasket did not need to be replaced at this time.
A very quick and simple procedure for the DIY-type person that can handle simple tools.

The old gasket was worn. I pulled out the old one, put in the new gasket. I trimmed the ends to fit and that was it.

Took out the two retaining screws and pulled the unit forward. Took the old door strike out and put in the new one. This site is where I go for all my appliance repair parts!!!

1. Engage B.R.A.I.N. :
B: Break open the Box. You know you'll never get it back in
R: Read Instructions: It's not more packing material.
A: Assemble New One: Put it together just like the old one
I: Ignore Instruction: Seriously, sharp edges will cut me?
N Never listen to the wife Or at least pretend to be listening

New piece snapped right on

Removed two screws,one on each side of the bottom part of the door. The door cover then comes off. Then 6 screws hold on the dispenser. Shut off power and remove two wire connections. Replace dispenser. Replace lower door cover and two screws. Done.