41790802992 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

followed the instructions on a blog

i removed the front panel, then removed the old pump by taking off the clamps and disconnected the wiring. The new pump had to be reversed before connecting, but it was so easy.

Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.

I'm a 70 year old widow.. ordered the part which came in 2 days..(.very reasonably priced) My son came over and in no time had the old out and new in...works like a new machine... Thank you Part Select. A few months ago ordered a stove ignitor..it too came really fast... stove is good for another 15 years..LOL

Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....

Took off all controls and panel. Removed the top. Pulled out the drum. Unscrewed shaft and bearing holder. Replaced all parts and started it back up.
--The parts were shipped timely,

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

I went online with Model number and put in a search for a timer knob. The piece I ordered turned out to be the timer knob for the washer (stackable washer/dryer unit). I called and ordered the correct part and had to mail back the 1st one. I learned that it is better to speak with a person when ordering parts to make sure you are getting the correct on. You can avoid a lot of expense for postage this way. Once I had it, it was just a matter of sliding it on to the metal post on the dryer.

I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.

First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.

removed old agitator by loosing a bolt at top, after removing the detergent dispenser. agitator came off easily, new one on, bolt on with rachet wrench, dispencer on. works like new. thanks for the great service. the part came in faster than i thought it would, and i would have had to travel for miles to get a part around here. VAL

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

I removed the broken knob from the metal shaft with a pair of pliers and slid the new knob in place.

Piece of cake!