41774182301 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I unscrewed the 2 screws on the side of the door and the 2 screws on the bottom of the door, removed the broken handle and r replaced it with the new one.

Snapped the new door handle replacement from this site in place. Fits perfectly.

I just used a putty knife to remove the broken one. It just popped right off.
The new one just popped into place.

I want to say that the girl / lady that answer the phone was extremely helpful and very professional,.

Took out of package. Used screw driver to pop off old broken handle.
Installed new part in a minute or two. Nothing to it. Was very pleased to get the part and so easy to install.

took apart and replaced parts easy to do but no one in my town can get me parts. thay want 100.00 gust to come out and look at it so found parts online and thats that

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

removed old plug which snap out very easy and
snap in new plug.

Ordered part from partselect.com. Part was back ordered; however they were very proactive in communicating status updates! When it arrived it was simply a matter of removing door using a philips screwdriver, installing the new hinge and presto - job complete! Kudos to partselect.com ??

popped in one in

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

First I unplugged the dryer. Then I gently pryed the top of the dryer. This was done from the front using a flat screw driver. Do this gently pushing up on the handle of the tool. It will pop up one side at a time. No need to remove the screws and clips on the the rear top of the dryer. Set the top aside. Then from the inside front of the dryer using a phillips screw driver I removed two screws, one on each side. This allowed me to lift the front of the dryer up and away from the unit, off the two clips on the bottom front of the unit. I set the front cover on top of the dryer. There is no need to disconnect any wires. Next removed the rear vented cover on the back of the dryer so I could acess the belt pullies. From here I pushed the upper left pully to the right to ease belt tension and take the belt off that pully. Slide the belt to the rear of the drum. Next I removed the three screws from the center most part of the inside of the dryer drum. My dryer required the use of a square head driver tool. This allowed me to easily bring the dryer drum out the front of the unit. Set it out of your way. Then I vacuumed the dust out of the dryer. Then I lifted out the metal part that resembles a trailer hitch which had been attached to the dryer drum. Next using a nut driver I removed the two screws which hold the white plastic part of the bearing assembly to the rear of the dryer. That is all the taking apart work.
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!

I followed the instillation instructions provided on your website. They were very informative and spot on. My only problem was my strength. I could not get the drum off of the rear bearing myself, but then I am a 61 year old female.

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

Blower wheel came apart from molded-in nut, was loose, was rubbing on housing wall, and was likelynot moving to much air. I read some troubled stories about separating the wheel nut from the motor shaft so bought a new motor and blower housing and install wall pretty easy. There are videos on the teardown process and does that long and not alot of parts to keep track of either. I have already done the felt drum liner and rear drum ball and belt so if it's older than 15 years and your going to take the dryer apart, replace all these parts and you will about have new dryer at half the cost of new.

Followed the video as my unit was exact model( Front Loader) Thank You for your quick ship to me here in Iowa as my repair was made in St. Louis. Parts came with in 2 days then drove to St. Louis with confidence. We purchased this set in 2003 and it is first repair on dryer. This in my rental unit. Thx