41748102700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Remove front panel to expose shocks. It took some time to remove the old shocks, both were broken. The pins were somewhat difficult to reach and remove, especially the one on right for it was shoved up against the electric wiring box. We ended up putting that pin in backwards for the new shock because it was impossible to reach from rear. Putting the new shocks was easy it was removing the old ones that took most of the time. The washing machine is working perfectly now.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.

Pulled the locking pins out, replaced the shock absorbers and re-installed the locking pins. I used Channel Lock pliers to remove and replace the locking pins. i used a deep socket to hold down the tab on the locking pins so they could be pushed out. The new shock absorbers came with installation instructions.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.

replaced the two shocks with the new ones by removing the pins that held the old ones in place.

Removed old shock abs. (both sides). The one side, I had to remove the speed control board to access the lower nut on the one shock. Install was fairly easy however, it did not fix the washer. Apparently there was something else (either a switch, the control board or the motor) needs replaced too.

I replaced both shocks, as both shocks were broken! Keep in mind that Parts select packages them in pairs. I order 2 packages or 4 shocks, guess I have another pair for ~ 5 years from now. These are located under the front bottom panel, so no need to isolate water lines or even pull this sucker away from the wall. Tight clearances are the only factor from making this really easy. Use some Vaseline to assist inserting the new plastic pins.

My shocks on the washer were broken, in part because of age, the other is broken spider drum inside the barrel. Was very easy to do the shocks. Unhook water connections and power. Move washer away from the wall. Remove the back cover from the washer. On the left side, you have to remove two screws from the electronics control box so you can gently move it out of the way. Then grab the plastic pin with some pliers and pull while depressing the locking lug on the end of the pin (Very important to depress the lock or you will have to buy new pins) Remove both pins for each shock. I used some high pressure grease on the pins when I put it all back together. Was a quick fix. Unfortunately had to take it all back apart as this was only a small part of my issue with having the stainless drum being broken inside.

The front lower access panel pops off with two Philips head screws. From there, the white pins holding the hold broken shock absorbers can be removed by pressing their locking tab down and pushing them free of the bushing.

After pulling the old, broken items out, the new ones are reinstalled the same way: place the metal end towards the drum, push the white pin through the bushing (only one way is correct) and you're almost done. Reinstall the front panel and get back to having a quiet washing machine!

Removed the 4 screws holding the top on. Pulled top forward to release front catches and stood top up out of way. Removed 2 screws holding door lock. Could not unplug wire plugs from door lock because wires too tight. Removed 2 screws holding lower front panel and removed panel. Pulled door lock down and unplugged old lock and plugged in new lock. It was easier to position door lock to reinstall screws by working from top, so top removal wasn't a total waste of time. Reinstalled front panel and top. Machine works.

I replaced both shock absorbers that hold the drum on a front loading washer. They both snapped at the base and have since been replaced by a different style shock absorber. There are 2 pins that hold each part in place. I took 5 minutes to replace 3 pins and about an hour to replace the last one, which was in a very tight spot. After much sweating and swearing, I managed to get the pin back in. Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! Partsselect.com is a dream for straightforward repairs. This is the second repair I have done on this machine (which is less than 5 years old) and both repairs have cost less than $30.

Just like the video said in the parts menu remove front of washer remove 2 screws remove 2 hose clamps replace pump replace 2 screws replace hoses and clamps and front door to washer done

just unscrewed the old one and put a new one on.
I bought two just in case this one breaks too.