41262 LG - Instructions

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

All I did was first of all and since it is so heavy I put 2 furniture sliders under the 2 front feat because I had to pull it out from where it was onto the carpet and the back feat I just sprayed some wd40 so the would slide on the tile floor. Then I took the top off by removing 2 bottom screws and pulled the lid back and up and there was the cold valve. Next I pulled the electric tabs off. Don’t worry they go on the same way they were on. Do not at this time remove the screws on the valve until you pull each off one at a time and place one at a time back on the new valve. Then remove the screws and the old valve and put the screws back on for new valve and you are done. Replace cold water hose turn on water check if no leaks replace lid, you are as if new once again. Good luck. Cost for all that is around $50

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Followed the video instructions provided.

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

First, slide top cover back, then lift of washer. Remember to turn off water supply and disconnect cold water hose before working on valve. Also, unplug washer from wall socket. Disconnect three small electric plugs from valve, noting the postion on valve,then disconnect the water hoses from valve, noting postition of each hose. Remove two small screws holding valve to washer,remove and replace valve.reistall valve, reconnect hoses and electric connectors. Reconnect water supply, turn on water supply, check for leak, reconnect power cord to wall socket. Run washer through normal wash cycle, observing water valve for leaks, normal operation, if no problems, then reinstall top on washer

found the leak, went to the website, called customer service, ordered the part... $24 later, problem solved. Great customer service and on-line support

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

My washer would try to spin and remove the water according to the time allowed. Consequently my washer would take longer than the time allowed to drain therefore water would send a code error then the machine would stop working. So I remove the hose from the pump and found my son's little small sock blocking the drain. I removed the sock and reinstalled all hoses. Everything is fine now. No need for a replacement item. Just a little servicing.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.