4071120 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

I called your tech and she sent me a awesome video that made it so easy to fix on my own

Popped out Old Roller, put in new one, pushing it together with a pair of pliers.

My only regret is that i didn't check the other side of the dishwasher... the other roller was broken also, and now i have to pay 5.95 shipping & handling for a .29 cent item

Check all your rollers before you buy just one!!!!!

Popped in the new one and done!!!

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

Replaced lower spray arm

Very Easy! Lift old arm out and replaced it with the new one.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...

Removed the broken clips - they snap off
then snapped on the new clips and attached them to the rollers.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.