4070110 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Diassembled the door from the insside and installed new board as instructions specified.
Frustration is that this is the second time I have had to replace for the same dishwasher....

change the nozzles and filter

just slid the new rack into place

The repair was easy. Removed all the screws from the inside door panel, approx. 11. Watch out for that last screw as there isn't anything else holding the outside panel, inside panel and control panel together other than those screws. I then unplugged the old dispenser backed out another 6 screws and replaced the old dispenser with the new one. Put it all back together within about a half hour.

Had to replace the top rack in the dishwasher. Removing the top rack was a tricky. Have to push the tab out not in on the stopper ends of the rack. Unscrew the bolts on the water sprayer. Need to slide the sprayer instead of unclipping it. Real easy to do once it is realized. Should have taken 30 minutes if I knew this in advance

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Just like the video and replaced it

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

No tools needed for this half-minute repair. Just bend the flexible plastic tab on the back of the end cap until it slips into the metal rail and the end cap snaps into place. Couldn't be easier or simpler!

HAHA! The easiest repair we have ever done! Took it out of the box, snapped the old arm loose, put the new arm in and -- the dishwasher works like new! Thank you!

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!