405012 - Instructions

Just snapped studs and wheels together and put them into place.

I removed the old seal, cleaned behind it, and then put the new seal in. We saw a video on You Tube on how to do it. Partselect also sent instructions on a e mail with the order receipt. We enjoyed working with you guys. Your customer service representative was very nice and accurate in sending out the part. All went as she said it would. Thanks!!

Removed the old wheels and studs. Pressed on the new studs and wheels. Viola.

The best money I've spent on a repair. Easy. The lower rack now rolls in and out smoothly.

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.

placed the end cap into location and forced it into place. Fixed -and we are all much happier!!

No tools needed for this half-minute repair. Just bend the flexible plastic tab on the back of the end cap until it slips into the metal rail and the end cap snaps into place. Couldn't be easier or simpler!

Popped out Old Roller, put in new one, pushing it together with a pair of pliers.

My only regret is that i didn't check the other side of the dishwasher... the other roller was broken also, and now i have to pay 5.95 shipping & handling for a .29 cent item

Check all your rollers before you buy just one!!!!!

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

and figured that was the problem. After a call to a delightful young lady in your service department We concluded that these rollers were the only thing available. Dejected I went back to my project with the intent of removing the wheels and grinding them down BUT 1st I gave it one more try and after some careful alined--Presto they rolled into the 2 tracks. I snapped the end caps on tracks--Problems solved--Please note: if these parts were taken off of my Bill Please Recharge them to me.THANK YOU ALL (IT WORKS LIKED A NEW WASHER) RON TUCKER 302 449-0342

I Googled bottom door gasket replacement on GE model and found several videos walking me through the process. I followed one of them and successfully replaced the gasket without pulling the appliance out.

I removed the anchor screws at the top of the dishwasher, and the screws holding the bottom kickplate in place. I pulled out the dishwasher 8-10 inches to expose the cables where the plastic hinge arm links are installed.
On mine, there is a steel cable with a hook crimped on the end. The hinge arm link doesn't slide out of this crimped hook easily as-is, the opening is too small. I removed the old link pieces by breaking them, but I couldn't get the new hinge arm links installed without filing the opening of the hook to accept them more easily.
The demo installation video doesn't show this spring-cable-hook-hinge link configuration, so it was a little more involved than I expected. I would have packed my metal file if I had known this would be an issue. I replaced both sides while I was in there, and the remaining good one was pretty brittle. I was glad I took the time to do both. I had to file both sides to install the new links.

The dishrack rollers were easy to install.
The rack slide end caps from the factory were difficult to remove and reinstall without some pliers and elbow grease. The replacement part was much easier to install.

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole