40410148 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the white end of the top track. Pulled off the remnants of the rack roller. Slide the rack roller wheel into the track and popped the other end on the top rack (looked at the other rack rollers to see how it fit.) After that, I put the end back on the track.... Note what is the top and what is the bottom of the track end. Realizing that there is a wider area on the track to slide part of the white track end through to get it on without much effort.

removed the end caps and took the rack out of the dish washer.

found right front rack roller bad and replaced.

slide rack back into dishwasher and replace end caps.

I used Partselect.com website to educate myself on parts needed for my model of dishwasher. Also reviewed repair instructions by others on the website and learned repair and replacement was straight forward and simple. I ordered parts from Partselect.com, they came promptly, and were the correct parts. Based on the repair instructions, I removed the fascia panel at the bottom of my dishwasher to expose the cable and spring setup for my model dishwasher, cleaned the area and installed the new parts - it took only a few minutes - then I replaced the panel and secured it with the sheet metal screws that were holding it in place. I opened the dishwasher door. My wife had already cleaned the corners of the tub where the old baffles had been, so I pressed the new baffles into place with my fingers - no tools were required for baffle installation. Dishwasher is back in service; thanks to the information, parts and prompt service provided by Partselect.com ! My wife is pleased and so am I.

Removed the rack.
Removed the roller bar.
Removed the roller base from the rack.
Removed the roller from the roller bar.
Replaced in reverse order.

DONE.

Took off the end cap- hardest part- took some twisting-be careful not to break it. After that slid out the old part and just popped the new one in. Then it took a little while again to put the end cap back in. No tools needed.

The rack for my model has been discontinued so they shipped me the replacement version. The wheels on the new one are skinnier than the original model so I had to remove them and replace them with the wheels from the old rack for it to fit/roll correctly. The new wheels were a little tricky to get off as I had to use a screw driver and basically manipulate/pry apart the clamps that hold them on. The old wheels just snap on.

Removed the 4 screws holding the filter screen assembly in the back of the tub. This exposed the Piston and Nut assembly which unscrewed fairly easily.
Replaced with the new part, put the filter screen assembly back in place ran the machine. The machine still stops with the blocked arm message - just not as frequently. The web researched fix with the piston and nut assembly replacement was obviously not the final answer. I am now out of options I believe except to bite the bullet and get a new machine. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Used a small flat head screw driver to remove the rail end covers (2) and removed the rack. Used my thumb to push the snap on roller assembly off the rack. The new rollers snap right back on the rack with just fing pressure. Re-installed the rack and then just pushed the rail end covers back on.

Very Simple Repair to a great machine. First problem in 13 years and still works great.

There are 4 phillips screws on two covers at the bottom front of the dishwasher, when they are removed, the cables and springs are accessible.
The springs and cables are replaced by hand only. Then the covers are replaced with the 4 screws.
DONE.

had to bend back the metal tab that holds the end cap on. this is tricky and a poor design from a repair point of view. i finally got the end cap off without destroying it. replacing the broken wheel was very simple and easy.

Took lower access panel off. Replaced broken cable and attached to double spring.

When it broke my wife wanted a new dishwasher? It cost $13.80 to fix and door works fine.

Took off old jet dry dispenser and replaced with new and now not leaking.

Followed the simple instructions to unscrew the old unit and replace with the new one. The unit was easily located on a diagram on the internet and the website instructions for removal were spot on.

Replace both micro switches.

Very easy - the hardest part is getting down on the floor to remove 4 Phillips screws which hold on the two trim panels below the door and, even tougher, getting the holes to line back up and reinstall them. Visibility is limited and an extra set of hands to hold the panels in position while you start the screws is really helpful. Otherwise, it's just a matter of hooking the cable eyelets onto the door, routing the cables over the nylon rollers, hooking one end of the spring to one of the cables and stretching it across to hook into the other cable. It's easier to do the rear spring first and to use the lower tension spring first if, like mine, the two springs ae different tension.