40400118 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the lower left side end of the old door gasket out of door gasket retaining slot and slowly and evenly continued to work my way around the door pulling the door gasket out of the retaining slot until I reached the end. I installed the new gasket into retaining the retaining slot beginning on lower left side and then slowly and evenly working my way around the door inserting the new gasket into the retaining slot. I was careful to make sure the two cutout portions of the new gasket's retaining edge were correctly positioned in the lower corners of the door.

I removed the two screw at the top holding the dishwasher to the counter top; pulled on the unit - but found it stuck on something.
Of course the hot water feed and the drain hose were still connected and would not let the unit move out any further as there was no slack.
If I had thought about it - I would have disconnected these from under the adjacent sink. But I ended up lying on the floor trying to disconnect them from underneath the unit. It was a bit difficult as there was very little room to move the wrench and the screwdriver.
Once done, the unit came out very easily.
When tipped over I disconnected the old motor and replaced with the new. It was a very different design but fitted in very easily. The hanger took a bit of working out as the diagrams are not very clear.
The wires and clips went together easily. Once I had cleaned everything around the motor and the gunge that cames from years or washing dishes, it went back the way it came out. Albeit with the same difficulty with feed and drain hose.
We ran the unit with no dishes for a couple of times to clear our the muck left in the pipes when the system was down.
Now we have a fully functioning dishwasher again. Cost $250 for the pump and motor as opposed to the $800+ unit my wife was looking at!

I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

I used the pump/motor replacement kit. It was a very easy repair and the parts were a direct replacement with no modification necessary. I saved over $300.

I have to be honest. At first I called a repair person, but it was Sunday so he couldn't come till the following week. Then my incredibly intelligent, industrious, and internet-savvy wife found your website. We saw that others had had the same problem. The part we needed was right there.... voila! 2 days later I had the part in hand. Not being the most handy of handymen, I followed the directions that others who had the same problem had posted. Yep, it was that simple -- And a heck of a lot cheaper than a repair person. Your website was very valuable, and I definitely will refer it to others looking for a part for a home repair job.

First, remove the two access panels to the bottom of the dishwasher, each had two screws. Then, disconnect each old door cable and eyelet assembly, and the two springs. Now, connect the two new cable assemblies, and reconnect the two springs, one at a time, between the eyelets of the cable assemblies. Finally, replace the access panels

Removed access panel (2 screws), Replaced broken cable/Eyelet assembly. Replaced access panel. Job took 5 minutes, including clean-up & stowing tools.

Installation was very easy! Rack works perfectly now. Only problem...bought four sets instead of 4 parts since the order form didn't say it included 4 in each pack.

Followed the very excellent instructions provided on website by Hotpoint/GE

My GE dishwasher had a problem. The upper rack would fall into the lower rack when loaded breaking dishes! Turns out, the front rollers on the upper rack were broken so that the supports would just pull out. So, I found the parts on this website easily. I then took off the plastic plug on the support which is easy to do. There is a flange you bend towards the rear of the dishwasher to release the plug. Once released you have access to the rollers, which just snap off easily. The new ones snap on easily. Reverse the cap removal, and you are done!

Installed new lower rack wheel kit

UNPACKED WHEELS AND CLIP. USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SQUEEZED WHEEL TIP TO INSERT IN WHEEL. REMOVED OLD WHEELS AND RETAINER BY HAND. INSTALLED NEW WHEELS INSTALLED AND NEW RETAINERS