3RGSC9400SL0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

I removed the softener cup from the top of the agitator unit. The auger works separately from the bottom agitator. Remove the cap from down in the auger. There is a 7/16" bolt that holds the Auger and agitator to the center shaft. Loosen that bolt with a 7/16" socket on an extension from the ratchet wrench, and remove it from the bushing- I used a magnet. You will need to hold the agitator to loosen the bolt. Save that bolt. You will need it later. The entire agitator and auger can be lifted as a unit straight up out of the washer tub. There is a plastic bushing in the replacement kit. Slide it down over the center shaft with the small tabs up, then apply some Vaseline to the tabs as a lubricant. The new agitator can now be slipped down over the center shaft and seated on the bushing. Place the top auger onto the shaft down on to the agitator. Next, assemble the top bushing by placing the four cogs into the slots with the small pegs. The cogs must have the side with the raised area on the top of the assembly. Next push the plastic keeper down over the center of the bushing to hold the cogs in place and push it down to secure the cogs. Place this assembly into center shaft and line up the four rectangular holes in the top bushing with the four plastic prongs below. The top bushing assembly may be pushed down and secured by the four upright pegs below. If there are plastic tabs obstructing the rectangular holes in the top bushing , you can put the bolt back into the center hole and carefully tighten it down making sure the four holes align with the four pegs below. Tighten until the top bushing is securely in place. You will need to hold the lower agitator while you tighten the bolt with the socket wrench. Replace cap over the top bushing, then the softener cup into the top of the agitator assembly. The job is complete.

Begin by removing the fabric softener dispenser then the barrier cap can be pulled from the agitator this will allow access to the agitator retainer bolt use an 11mm socket and extension to remove it once the bolt is out the agitator assembly can be pulled straight up out of the machine. To separate the upper agitator from the lower placing the agitator on the floor and placing your feet on the lower half and pulling up on the upper half will separate the two parts, however before performing this operation the agitator cam assembly may be heat set in place, looking down into the upper agitator there are four lugs that hold the cam in place if you use a sharp knife and cut thru the areas that have been heated and welded together separation of the two half's will be made easier. Once all the old cam parts are out reassemble the new parts the same way as the old ones were removed, the cam kit and the thrust washer kit come with a diagram in case you forget how to reassemble the parts. The agitator assembly simply slips back onto the drive splines, the attachment bolt has a seal under it that can be crushed if the attachment bolt is tightened too tight, I could not find a torque specification for this bolt so what I did was tighten the bolt until it contacted the seal completely and then applied just enough torque to turn the bolt until the agitator began to turn along with the bolt, then just install the barrier cap and seal and replace the fabric softener dispenser and the job is done, if you're washer is like mine I spent more time cleaning parts than actually performing this repair.

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!

I first took the 2 screws out and disconnected the wires, I got my parts ordered and when they came in I put it back together then plugged th wires back in. I really could not believe that I could do something of this nature but when I started it was easy. My boyfriend wanted to take the washer to a repair shop, but I said first I will take a look and see if it will be worth saving. Otherwise I will junk it. It cost me with shipping costs 41.00 I am very proud of my self.
But I read other peoples experience on fixing the same problem that I had so I gave it a try.
I will not hesitate to do other jobs myself. Doreen Finlaw

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.

Pulled out old hose and replaced with new one. Very simple and easy.

Unplug the washer. Used flat blade screwdriver under each end of the control housing on top of the machine. This popped the spring clips and allowed the control housing to be lifted up and rotated out of the way. Once out of the way, lift clip on wiring harness to lid switch, then pull the harness off. Use nutdriver to remove screw holding ground wire in place. Open lid of the machine. Pinch tab on back of the lid switch and rotate the switch up and out of the machine. Insert the new switch in the same manner, making sure that the machine lid remains open until the switch snaps into place. Attach ground wire using screw removed earlier and nutdriver. Clip wiring harness back in place. Close the lid and then rotate the control housing downward, and press on both ends to re-engage the spring clips which hold it down.

unplug washer. -remove two phillips head screws and two nut head screws holding control panel. -lift up control panel. -remove nut head screw on ground wire of switch. -release and remove switch. - put in new switch. - connect ground wire. -replace control panel and screws. -plug in washer. (depending on location of your washer move it to gain access to screws on back of control panel.- once done move washer back.)

Hi I took off the old one and put on the new one quick and easy

Removed the liquid softener cartridge.
Removed the plastic seal inside the upper agitator using a pliers.
Removed the bolt holding the agitator in place using a 7/16 socket wrench with a 6 inch extension.
Lifted the agitator out.
Separated the upper and lower agitator into two pieces.
Replaced the cam assembly inside the upper agitator.
Reversed the whole process.