38FA-2CW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I ordered and received the replacement element, then unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one.

Job done.

removed old and installed new

installed new control unit had to use the old dial so it would match . Toughest part is the cleaning! needed it.

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

My son-in-law installed the new element. First turn off the electricity and remove oven door. Then unscrew all connections to the element.The back electrical wires come out from the top back oven. The bracket screw faces the oven and the electrical wires are so short there is very little room for a screw driver (get the shortest one you can find..abt as big as your thumb if possible).Once that was out the element came out with no problems.Then it's just reversing the step. Again, that back electical bracket is difficult to get to for install. Also, the new screws in our kit were Philips, but the old ones were flat so check those out before turning off the oven light.

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

used drill to remove old screw

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Removed the oven door, removed old burned element, installed new element. Turned CB back on and tested oven. Reinstalled oven door. Straight forward and easy to follow directions with new element.Local appliance part house said the element was no longer available. Thanks to you I did not need a new oven. Very easy replacement job with normal tools.Thanks

This worked out GREAT. We were about to purchase a new range when I found the needed parts were available. The stores we had contacted had told us our range was too old to have parts available. I had no problem with installing the receptacle at all. The pans went in easly as excepted. My wife is happy with her NEW arrangement. She does not need to learn how to operate a new range. Thanks for your help. The instructions sent were clear and easy to follow.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!

The element appeared to have been damaged. I replaced the element with ease. However, I still have the same problem. The oven does not heat up to the set temperature. Information from the part select website is that it is more likely the long oven sensor. I ordered one and will provide the results after I have this sensor replaced with a new one.

The repair only took me 10 minutes to do. I purchased the surface replacement kit from partselect.com. The part arrived in two days. The instructions were very simple. I read the instructions on line during my purchase. When I received the new part, I simply did the repair. Including shipping, the cost was less than $20.00. A service call would have been at least 5x the cost. Thank you for being there Partselect. (Tim from south bend indiana)