38489KBSJRSS General Electric - Instructions

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.

Removed two screws holding the cover. Unclipped and unplugged the defroster timer. Plugged in the new one . Replaced the cover. Finished.

Removed shelf by pushing to left and lifting up on RH end. Removed screws in plastic cooling tower and slid tower up. Pulled back wall of freezer compartment out, RH side first. Removed two screws from fan bracket, unplugged fan wiring harness by compressing connector spring clips and pulling joint apart. Pulled fan blade off (note location of blade on shaft for reinstall alignment purposes), removed both green grommets.Then just reinstalled new items.My philosphy on repairs of this nature is to replace all related parts that could be contributing to problem. The parts are cheap compared to the aggravation and inconvenience of doing the repair several times until you fix the problem. You don't need to purchase the compression ring if you buy the fan blade as it has one already installed on it. Problem solved, though now that the noise is gone am hearing fainter similar noises from lower fan. Should I be surprised, both fans are of similar design.

The part i received fit perfect, i just removed the old part and put the new part in with the screw driver.Really easy

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

I removed the broken frame, glass, and bins from the refrigerator, cleaned the area, put the new frame in place making sure it was fitted into the brackets securely, and replaced the glass and bins into their proper slots.

Removed old fan and replaced the fan with new one.
2 years ago, the refrigerator was under warranty and tech replaced the fan but I found that the fan was not the original spec fan. Apparently, the fan that the tech replaced did not fit opening.

Now, my refrigerator works no problem. Save a ton of $$$ by doing it myself. Do not have to buy a new fridge and this one works perfect.

First I removed the left condensor fan motor bracket nut, loosened the right motor bracket, dropped the moter bracket down freeing the motor from the rubber grommets.
Pulled the fan off from the motor shaft, pressed the new fan on the shaft and installed new grommets. Replaced the motor bracket and tightened the right bracket nut and checked fan for clearance and free spin. Reinstaled the left bracket nut. Turned on the refrigerator and checked fan for action. Everything worked great.
I did not know the fan replacement came with a compression ring already installed, so now I have an extra compression ring.

First I had to go to the hardware store to buy a star bit to remove the old screws ($1.09). I attached it to my quarter-inch drill and used it to remove the old screws. I then used those same screws to attach the new slide. Once I had the star bit, it was little more than a five-minute task.

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

I didn't call for repair iwas just order 2 pcs it's coming early morning in the next day I was happy 1hundred% I will recommend this company

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.