3644803591 Kenmore Range - Instructions

first, made sure circuit breaker was off
second, used nut driver to remove 2 screws on old element, pulled it from the back of the oven
third, removed 2 wires from old element (spade connectors)
fourth, connected new element and pushed back into oven.
fifth, reinstalled 2 screws securing new element

this was all done by my 15 yr old son under my supervision.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power.
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!

Fan motor has to be removed from the rear. Since this is a (double) wall oven, the hardest part was sliding the oven out of the wall.

First, doors are removed, eight screws that hold the oven in place (along the side of the doorways) are removed. The rear panel inside the oven must be removed to expose the fan. Four screws hold that in place.
Next, slide out the oven. The fan is covered by a tin shroud which is easily removed with a nut driver. The blade of the fan (inside the oven) is held on by a reverse threaded nut which must be removed. The fan motor is mounted with three screws and has two wires plugged into it. Piece of cake.

Reverse the procedure and you're done.

The best part was that I had originally called a service guy, who was going to 'defer me to GE for the repair' because the oven had to come out of the wall!! I think I'm going into the repair business!

FIRST MAKE SURE THE OVEN IS OFF!!!! I chose to shut it off at the breaker panel. Remove the two screws that attaches the broiler element to the oven. Gently pull it out. Unplug the two cable wires that are attached. Replace it and install the same way.

First I removed the oven door from the appliance. Then I placed it on a table and removed the screws from around the edges. First I removed an aluminum heat shield. Then I removed the first of three heat shielding glass viewing panels, followed by the second one by removing even more screws. I carefuly laid the parts out in the oreder that I remove them along with their screws. Next I removed the large heat shielding aluminum plate that held the first two glass heat shields. Then removed a layer of insulation. Then I was down to the sheel steal plate that holds the gasket. As a precaution I removed the thick pyrex glass heat shilding viewing panel. Lastly the plate that held the door seal was removed. After removing the old gasket, I carefully placed the new oven door gasket in place. After cleaning all the parts that had been removed, I replaced them one at a time in reverse order. Most of my time was spent cleaning. How ever I was especially impressed with the good condition of the oven door after 20 years of approximately every other day oven use. Thanks

removed 4 screws of the back fan cover, then removed the two screws holding the element and disconnected the slip-on electrical wire connections. replaced enement and cover in reverse. this was all done after i cut power at circut breaker duhh

I removed the two mounting screws then pulled the element forward and disconnected the two element screws. I reversed the process to install the new one/ this oven is over 30yrs old.

If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.

Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.

Kimberly, El Cerrito, California

The most obbious suspect is the upper oven fan. Turned off power circuit breaker. Removed two philip screws at top of control panel and lowered the panel. Using the 3D view of the oven on this web site I located the fan limit switch. Jumpered the limit switch. Turned power on and the fan ran. That proved the switch was defective and not the fan. Replaced the limit I purchased from Partselect.com.

Please note* My life career was electrical. I used the schematic that came with the oven to determine that the limit was the only control between one of the 240 volt lines and the fan. Thus I knew it was safe to jump the limit.

If you are in doubt, seek some advice.
Good Luck, Arno

Removed the oven racks, removed screws holding element hanging support from roof of oven, removed screws holding plate of element to rear of oven. CAREFULLY worked element loose from back of oven and gently alternated pulling each side of element (near the base) until connecting wires came free of insulating batting. Pull too hard and the connecting wires can break loose and disappear behind the batting. Once freed, disconnected both wires with socket (use pliers for extra grip on flat part of connectors, if necessary), removed element, braced new element on bottom of oven, aligning connectors to now-free wires. Re-attached with the new screws that came with the element (attachment points on element are threaded; do not reuse old screws as the threads may not match), gently re-inserted element into insulating batting at rear of oven, reattached hanging support, then replaced element plate screws.

Can be difficult to work in small, deep ovens....many oven doors can be removed. If so, remove oven door and use a chair as a support...lie on your back on the chair and hang your head and arms in the oven.

I removed the screws holding the old element in place, then pulled it out a few inches from the back oven wall. Then I pulled the wires away from the old baking element (pulled off easily), and being careful to keep the wires on the same sides as before, pushed the new element on to the wires. It was then just a matter of inserting the wires and insulation back into the opening and tightening the screws. Simple!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

It was very simple.. first turn off the electricity... next take out the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven... then pull the two plugs apart( male and female ends) ... throw away old part.
put new part in by plugging the male and female ends back together... push back into oven back.. get all insulation back in... put two old screws back in to secure... done.. turn on power...
don't be afraid.. it was very, very easy.

Remove the screws inside the oven holding the back of the element to the rear wall of the oven. These scrrews are a square drive. Pull element forward and remove 2 screws that hold wires in place. Both sets of screws needed to be replaced with a different size. Reverse order to install.