3639550970 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This was a very easy fix. I cut the water lines at the reservoir, coupled the old lines to the new lines with two plastic barbed fittings used for outdoor drip irrigation. All I had to do was pull the old lines out and the new lines followed. Easy as pie!

you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.

Important: The complete Model No. of the refrigerator must be used to obtain the correct part. (Before ordering) To determine the parts required, I removed the ice storage compartment from the Auger Helix Display (AHD) assembly. Note: (A saucer can be place inside the ice storage compartment to keep the ice cubes contained until the parts arrive.) I then disassembled the (AHD) and related parts from the ice storage compartment by removing the "C" clip from the end of the (AHD) and unscrewing the plastic retainer from the end of the shaft counter clockwise. After the housing was removed, I should have taken a photo of the parts hidden by the plastic housing before they were removed from the (AHD) shaft. It is very important NOT TO remove the splined pin from the plastic part that secures the two fixed cutters together.This sub-assembly must be re-installed exactly as it was in the housing notch. (These cutters are held firm by the housing notch and free to spin on the shaft. All other cutters are fixed to the shaft to force ice between the rotating cutters and the fixed cutters for crushing.) I removed the splined pin for cleaning and found that it could be re-assembled about 5 incorrect ways. Note the order and direction of the cutters and plastic spacers before removing from the (AHD) shaft. There are no installation instructions or drawings with the part. The drawing from the website was not detailed enough to determine the proper positioning of all of the parts that are hidden by the plastic housing. Once the parts were properly re-installed, the ice crusher and despenser work perfectly. Note: Clean all parts before re-assembly. The total time should be about an hour if directions are followed.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Disassembled ice-maker, noting what screws went where, what direction ice release control arm pointed, and noting how the control arm spring was mounted. The door assembly comes off first followed by the circular assembly that houses the ice door and last grinding arms. It is quite easy see how it comes apart as you look at the screws. Remove the screw holding the back end of the control arm and note the spring position. The control arm needs to be turned to line up notches to pull it thru a faceplate hole while rotating the arm about the "U" that is on the outside of the faceplate in the door housing. There is a retaining clip holding the rotating impeller to remove to complete the dis-assembly. Use vinegar to clean rust out of bin and other parts around the faceplate. Assemble the unit in the reverse order to complete the job.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

1. Turned off the water supply to the refrigerator.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same time pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.

Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

through away the old grate. Then put the new grate in the depression All done.

Remove the burned out bulb and install the new light bulb.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.