3639454280 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I was set to buy a new magnetic seal to hold the door closed, when I looked it up on PartSelect I saw the recommendation that the problem might be the door closing cam.. I check it with a mirror and sure enough the cam had broken and the door sagged about 1/4 inch. I then followed the instruction and removed the top hinge, lifted the door off and replaced the cam. I did need two and the one attached to the lower hinge had to be drilled out and a new screw and nut attached to hold the cam. It was simple to do, I would recommend selling the door closing cam be sold in pairs with a #10 1/2 inch long screw with lock nut.

took top bracket off--then removed door--took
bottom bracket off bottom of door and replaced
door closing cam and reasembled---a piece of
cake

Like the rest of the other statements it was easy with 2 2X4 pieces of wood to block the door up. The other suggestion about buying two of the pieces was a good idea. Once I took off both the top and bottom pieces they were both worn out and it was easy to replace them both at the same time. The door is working good again and shuts on its own.

I blocked the door up with one 2X4 Then removed the lower hinge, installed the closing cam. Then I found that I needed one more closing cam that I didn't order the first time. This other one mounts to the lower section of the door and both cams set together. Re-ordered another cam. When it came in I installed it. Between ordering both parts I had them both in three days. The best to Parts Select
I now know where to buy my parts if needed again.

Thanks
Bob
Sandusky, Ohio

1) The large drawer is first removed from the guide that remained on the side wall.

2) Removal of the light shield from the rear of the glass shelf to facilitate glass shelf removal by lifting the rear edge of the glass and remove it.

3) Unscrew two phillips head screws holding the remaining pieces of the plastic guide to the interior side panel of the fridge.

4) Examine the replacement guide and insure that the nylon guide and stop parts are clicked into place. If unsure, look at the guide on the other side to ensure that both are present and completely seated before installation of the replacement guide. (These usually fall out of the guide during shipping and should be in the bag with the guide!)

5) Once the guide is outfitted with the nylon guides, secure the new guide with the two phillips screws and DO NOT over tighten, remember you are dealing with plastic guide and steel screws going into a steel cabinet.

6) Re-install the glass shelf, followed by the light shield and finally the large drawer which should slide out smoothly to the stop and back closed without any drag.

7) A successful installation usually includes giving the drawer and glass shelf a good cleaning that probably could be done to the entire fridge side of the unit.

I had this problem before and called a repair guy. He told me about the little freezer heater (WTF?) and showed me that it's basically a light bulb that wears out. He took off the back panel and showed me the metal plates with the tubes under neath. But he only had one bulb to replace with, so he only fixed one of the two. Total cost to "change a light bulb": $229
This time I ordered the part and did the work myself. It was totally easy, but that is because I knew what I was doing. The hardest part is squishing into the freezer to unscrew things. Before I took it all apart, I used my cellphone camera to take a picture of how it was (which wires went where), just in case after taking the old one off, I couldn't remember how to put the new one on. No problem. The actual part swap took ~5 min (unhooking and rehooking the temp gauge and the power connector). Most of the time was just unscrewing and screwing in the screws.

My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!

I cleaned out the door and removed the top hinge. Lifted the door and layed it on the floor. Removed bottom hinge from refridgerator installed new hinge. Replaced plastic stop on door. Used broke hinge to align it and tighten. Lifted door onto new hinge and installed top hinge. Instead of buying $35 dollar hinge buy 2 plastic stops. You'll have to drill out a rivet on bottom hinge but it will save over $30.00.

First I placed a 2x4 under the frig door to keep it in place while I removed the hinge on the bottom of the door. I removed two screws holding the hinge and one screw holding the washer in place. I also loosened a screw adjacent to the washer so that I could more easily remove and replace the washer. The parts went in easily. The repair took much less time than I anticipated.

First, I was glad I read other posts on this repair as I would have only purchased one of the replacement cams when I needed two! I removed the top door hinge with a screw driver (cover) and small socket set for the door hinge. I then removed the door and removed the bottom hinge (socket set). The bottom hinge had a small rivit that held the bottom cam in place. I used a hack saw to cut off the rivit and replace the cam and secured it with a small machine bolt and nut. I then laid the door on its side and removed the top am from a bracket attached to the bottom of the door. I relaced the cam (second one) and reinserted the screws. I reattached the bottom hinge and then placed the door on the bottom hinge pin. I then held the door in place while inserting the top hinge pin bracket into place and retightening the top screws. I replace the cover with a screw drive which was the ahrdest part in trying to find the hole the small screw gets inserted into. DONE!

I would recommend removing the dor first as I had to do this after fighting with the drawer to get it out.
There is a cap on the hinge that has one screw, then two nuts and the door is off. From there the drawer rails are easily replaced.

Removed the top hinge cover held by one screw. Removed the top hinge held by two screws and them lifted the door up and off the bottom hinge. Laid the door on the floor and replaced the cam piece from the kit on the bottome of the door. That required removing one screw and losening another. Removed the lower hinge (two screws) and replaced it with the new one in the kit. The lower hinge includes the other cam piece. Lifted the door onto the lower hinge and then replaced the top hinge and cover.

After reading the stories here, I purchased one door closing cam. After getting into the problem area, I realized I needed 2 cam, so I put the door back together and ordered another cam. If you have this problem, buy 2 cams.

I removed the door from the bottom hinge assembly by removing the top hinge assembly.
1. Installed the cam to the bottom of the door.
2. Installed hinge and bottom pin & cam to the refrigerator.
3. Reinstalled door and adjusted front roller height to make door close better.

First i removed the lower cover below doors . Then placed a 4x4 under the door to be fixed to keep it in place. Removed screws from hinge support on unit to remove cam Removed outside screw on door and loosened other to allow other cam to be removed . Always buy two cams if one is broken the other cant be in very good shape .The door will work like new with two .