36393 Kenmore - Instructions

the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

1) turned off breaker to oven
2) removed oven racks
3) removed screws holding old element
4) pulled out element far enough to remove 2 wires attached to old element
5) noted colors, left white, right black
6) attached new element to wires
7) attached new element to oven
8) put back oven racks
9) turn breaker back on
10) test oven
done

Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder joint. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.

The only reason I mentioned "a bit difficult" is that it is very important to unplug the unit first. I didn't want to say easy because I didn't want someone just jumping right in, (you do end up handling raw wires).
First I removed the two screws that were holding in the element to the back wall of the oven, then pulled out the old element slightly until you see where the wires are attached to the end of the element. I made note (I don't know if this is neccessary) which wire came off which screwset so I could put the new one in the same way. Took out the old element and attached the new one to the two screwsets on the ends of the element and then reinserted that part in in the back wall of the oven and attached plate that holds it in place. It was for my mother and she now thinks I'm a genius! Don't let anyone take a picture of you of you from behind because you definitely have to put your head in the oven. I believe the door is removable that may make it easier to get to it.

This repair took much longer than it should have.
When I noticed the oven would not heat in bake mode, I suspected the element was bad. Going on the forum, I found that I needed to ohm out the element to be sure, so from inside the oven, I removed the two screws holding the element into the stove, pulled out the element a bit and removed the screws from each contact, ohmed it out and found no continuity. I ordered a new bake element which arrived in a couple of days.
I installed the new element by connecting the wires back to each terminal end. It still didn't work and not only that, the broil element didn't work now either.
I inquired again on the forum and found that the suspect might be the control module that controls both bake and broil elements. The part was $250.
Not wanting to spend that on a 10 year old stove, I ordered a new stove at Sears that was on sale.
I sent the bake element back and waited for my stove to arrive.
Sears called a few days later that my stove was ready for pickup so in preparation, I pulled my old stove out from the wall and began to disconnect the pigtail to use on the new one. It was then I noticed a wire dangling that seemed to go to one side of the bake element. When I pulled out the bake element initially and disconnected the wires, I didn't notice that one terminal had TWO wires going to it and one had a single wire connected. It was a bit dark inside the stove when I initially took the screw off of each terminal and I never noticed the second wire on the left one. I installed the old bake element, knowing it may not work but just to see if the broil now worked and it did!
So I ordered another bake element and installed it connecting two wires to the left terminal and one to the right terminal, reattached it to the back of the oven and IT WORKS!!

I cancelled my new stove at Sears which saved me about $500. Just a $26.00 part.

Turned off breaker to stove.Used nut driver to remove the holding plate from the back ove the oven. Their was between 4 to 6 inch of slack on the wire. Used the nut driver and removed the red wire from the right side of the old element, and then removed the white wire from the left side of the element. Replaced the cap head screws that required a nut driver, with the slotted screws that came with the new element, replaced the white wire(left) the red wire(right), end reattached the holding plate to the back of the oven and done!
There are stand offs on the bottom of the element, so you can't get it confused on where the wires go, but take care that the wires do not slip back in the element "hole" or you will have to "fish" them back out.

Brought the element up slowly to 500 degrees, to burn off any residue on the element. Smelled a chemical smell for the first 5-10 seconds of the "burn in", then no smell.

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2-3 inches and then removed the two screws that fastened to the ends of the element. Was careful to keep the same wires separate in order to fasten the new element back to the same two wires. When fastening the new element ends back to the wires, care must be taken to not bend the ends of the element when tightening the small screws to the ends. Everything went real good and am most pleased with the very fast service portrayed by Parts Select. They are a class act company and rate very high in customer satisfaction!

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.