363784 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

Tried replacing water valve since no water in ice cube tray. Exact part not available due to age of refrigerator, but I got the equivalent replacement part for $18. Mounting holes different, but I made it work. Also one connect on new one slip connect whereas both compression fittings on old valve. I put it back together and icemaker now works great.

Replacing the new part wasn't hard, just very time consuming and frustrating. I had to remove two-thirds of the shelving of refrigerator as broken drawer slide was on the bottom and I had to have room to remove old and replace new. Of course, then I had to CLEAN all the drawers and shelving before replacing them and then, because they were fresh and clean, I had to remove the other third of shelving and wash and replace it. So, it was an hour-long or more time. I love your business, and had no idea I could get so many parts for old applicance and replace them myself, and I am a 70-year-old woman! This was the 2nd time to use your site and I will return to it again when needed. Thanks for prompt and reliable service and a site that makes it easy for a neophyte like me to find the broken part ! Keep up the good work.

Remove the rear cover, shut off the water, removed the hose, unplugged the electrical connector, removed the screw holding the valve on. Removed the plastic tube going into the freezer and reversed the steps

Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

1 unplug the appliance
2. remove the rear cardboard cover, giving access to the compressor and condenser area
3. remove the two (condenser motor bracket) mounting screws, then with the motor assembly in your hand remove the the fan blade which is friction mounted to the motor shaft( note the exact position of the fan blade on the motor shaft so you can replace it in the same position when you reassemble), remove the two wires connected to the motor. Also remove the rubber resilient mounting grommets on the motor mount frame as these can harden with age and cause excessive vibration.
4 install the new motor into the mounting frame with the new grommets
5 reconnect the two wires to the new motor (non polarized)
6 secure the mounting frame (with the installed new motor) back in place
7 slide the fan blade onto the new motor shaft
8 screw the rear access panel back in place
plug in the refrigerator. the next time the compressor and condenser fan cycle on, verify operation of the new condenser fan motor

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.

I followed the directions on the site for the center slide replacement. I had actually called a local store and had him order the first part. It took several days and then I started searching online and found this site.Then I ordered the second part on line and to my surprise it arrived the next day. I was fortunate enough to have lived only about 70 miles from the distributer.Following the directions I found here is how I attempted the initial repair. With the vegetable bins out fo the bottom, I removed the plate covering the front frame by gently prying it off. Then I removed the two screws to losen the bar and lifted out the glass shelf. I didn't have much difficulty removing the frame since the front piece support for the slide rail that fit into the frame was already broken. I also had to loosen the screws on the back rail. I removed the entire frame and then replaced the side rail reinserting it into the end caps. I replaced the back screws and then the front ones .I replaced the glass shelf and then the cover cap for the shelf.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.

Removed old valve easily. New WR57XI0033 valve is designed to mount on lower left, but on mine it has to mount on lower right. Had to drill two 1/32 holes in lower rail to mount the new valve.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.