36371542411 General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.

Ensure washer drum is empty of water before attempting repair. Disconnect the power to the appliance. Remove the front washer panel (a metal putty knife if needed to unlock the two upper tabs which releases the panel). Locate the existing drain pump at the bottom of the unit. Disconnect the two wires from the drain pump motor (one orange, one black/white). A pair of pliers and a gentle pull should do it. Using a small ratchet and socket, loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the drain pump to the bottom panel of the washer. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the factory hose clamp on the large drain tube that connects the pump to the drum and remove the hose from the pump, being careful to capture any residual water from the drum. A towel is helpful to absorb the water. Repeat for the smaller discharge drain tube located on the side of the pump. Once both tubes are disconnected, remove the old pump. Install the new pump and reconnect everything in reverse order. Connect the small drain tube to the side of the pump. Connect the large drain tube from the drum. Ensure the clamps are properly secured. Insert and hand-tighten the two bolts that secure the pump to the bottom panel of the washer, making sure the bolts are snug but being careful not to overtighten. Reconnect the two wires to the motor. Restore power to the appliance. Run a quick wash cycle to ensure pump is working correctly and check for any water leaks. When satisfied, reinstall and secure the front washer panel.

Replace both micro switches.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.

it was easy, it clip right on.needed to give it a little tap to get it in .

removed two phillips screws from front panel, removed front panel and raised top cover, had my wife hold up top cover while i removed belt and installed new one, reassembled in reverse order, turned on dryer and checked for proper operation, and yes i did unplug the unit. worked great!!

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

no problem open top remove front install new belt

Removed the top of the dryer 2 screws. procedure
open dryer door. At the top of the dryer door their is
two screws left to right, Remove them and lift top
off. Inside where the top was is two screws left to
right. Remove the two screws and take the front
panel off. Carefull not to pull wireing loose. Lean door against something so you don't have to disasemble wireing. Pull broken belt out and install new belt around tumbler and up and over
tension pulley and pull down and slip over the motor pulley. Your'e done. Reassemble front then
top. My dryer ran just fine after these steps. The question and answers helped me do this.