36368595896 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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Broke fan blade cleaning unit
Ordered part came in 3 days. Removed plug and rear cover. Pulled off old fan . Installed new fan by pushing it on to shaft. Plugged unit back in to check operation, installed rear cover. Done. Part fit perfect. Thanks to this site you folks are great !
Parts Used:
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Mark from DEPEW, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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Fridge light dead even with new bulb
1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!
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marj from NEWBURY PARK, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Had a 'ticking' sound
Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.
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John from PARKVILLE, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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I found a broken slide rail after replacing a center slide rail.
I followed the directions on the site for the center slide replacement. I had actually called a local store and had him order the first part. It took several days and then I started searching online and found this site.Then I ordered the second part on line and to my surprise it arrived the next day. I was fortunate enough to have lived only about 70 miles from the distributer.Following the directions I found here is how I attempted the initial repair. With the vegetable bins out fo the bottom, I removed the plate covering the front frame by gently prying it off. Then I removed the two screws to losen the bar and lifted out the glass shelf. I didn't have much difficulty removing the frame since the front piece support for the slide rail that fit into the frame was already broken. I also had to loosen the screws on the back rail. I removed the entire frame and then replaced the side rail reinserting it into the end caps. I replaced the back screws and then the front ones .I replaced the glass shelf and then the cover cap for the shelf.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.
Parts Used:
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Anna from Weatherly, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Parts Used:
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Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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broken right side rail.
I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.
Parts Used:
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Jorge from Spring Lake, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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R/S rail was broken draw would not slide in correctly.
Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.
Parts Used:
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Laurence from Northport, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Broken light switch
This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!
Parts Used:
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Deborah from BRADLEYVILLE, MO
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Evap fan failed, would need restarted by hand when weather warmed up
Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.
Parts Used:
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Linda from WILLIAMSPORT, PA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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shelf end cap broke on door
slid it on the end of the shelf and put shelf back on door
Parts Used:
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Deb from LIVERPOOL, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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My light in the refrigerator was going on and off.
I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.
Parts Used:
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Nan from PURCELLVILLE, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Parts Used:
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Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Slide rail broken at forward mount
Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.
Parts Used:
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Phyllis C. from Northwood, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Left drawer slide broken replaced both right and left
Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.
Parts Used:
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Daniel from Chesapeake, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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strong children, broken parts
The refrigerator replacement parts all fit in just like new. The old shelves were duct taped in place till I got the new ones. Used WD-40 to remove the left over tape on the plastic, worked great. Removed glass shelf / front up first pull forward. Install center slide with gasket, replace shelf. Door shelf end cap slides up to remove, clips to front of shelf. Takes more time cleaning than making repairs.
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Logansport, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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