36358895896 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The comments from customers experiences gave me the confidence that the defrost timer was the problem since the compressor was still working and it went just as they all said, four 1/4' hex head screws and I had access to the old timer, unplugged the old ,plugged in the new and put the four screws back in. Nothing happened so after a while I looked a bit harder at the accessable part of the timer after intallation and saw what looked like a dial. I turned the dialclockwise and immediatly the compressor turned on. I have not found any information as to how much or little to turn this dial which obviously is an adjustable cycle setting so I just turned it all the way, so far everything is working alright.

1) Shut off water source.
2) Unplug Refrigerator.
3) Remove screws on bottom rear panel.
4) Disconnect water connection at valve assembly.
5) Remove single screw holding valve assembly.
6) Transfer electrical connections from old valve to new.
7) Transfer all water connections from old valve to new. Push in ring to release tubing.
8) Replace rear panel. Reconnect water source. Plug in refrigerator. Turn on water source.

Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

Used my fingers and pulled the old one our and pressec the new one in all in about 30 seconds. Saved at least a $60 service call.

Unplug refrigerator,remove the freezer bulb, trays and rear cover to expose coils and heating element/defroster, The telltale sign its bad was it looked like an old flashbulb/burned, the old one was open, melt enough ice to remove and replace the defrost element(2 screws 2 wires) and reinstall components, reconnect power, thats it.

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

After replacing the solenoid several months ago, I concluded that the problem could only be the electronic circuit board that controls the timing and delay. The part arrived sooner than I expected. Installing it involved removing only six screws and unplugging two connections. The whole project took only about 10 minutes and now my ice maker works like new. Total cost was less than $55. Saved me several hundred dollars not to mention my personal time had I called in a repairman.

David O.
Albuquerque, NM

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

I had to back-track acouple of times because I put the shelf brackets back in before I had the back panel in.It was also alittle tight getting the thermostat snapped back on the refrigerant line because it is a tight space and I have big hands.For a first timer who has had minimal experiance it wasn't too tough.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new.
thanks.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the black fiberboard panel at the back of the unit. I turned off the water at the wall and disconnected the copper water line from the unit.

One bolt holds the valve assembly in place. Once the bolt is removed you simply pull the unit out of the refrigerator. I took the time to mark all electrical connections and water lines (1, 2, 3, etc.) and wrote the corresponding numbers on the new valve unit. I unplugged the electrical connections and removed all water lines by gently squeezing them with the pliers and pulling them out of the old valve.

After everything was disconnected I connected the new valve. The numbering system made it easy to know exactly which plug/line went where and it was reconnected in less than 2 mins. I slid the unit back, replaced the single bolt holding the unit, reconnected the main copper water line, turned it on, placed the fiberboard back in place and was done.

We had an estimate from a refrigerator repairman of $275 to change this valve, parts & labor. We thought it was ridiculously high and decided to attempt the repair ourselves. Best decision we ever made and saved a fortune.

This is definitely an easy fix. Go for it!