36348252893 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Part was perfect fit .Removed fan .three screws.replaced that s it

It took me longer to remove all the shelving than it did to replace the part, at first I had a small short, [a bare wire was open, cut off too much casing,] thought it was faulty, but I cut back on the wire, wire caped it, then taped it with electrical tape, reinstalled, workes just fine now, at temp #6on dial. should have paid " MORE ATTENTION TO STEVE". I would highly recommend [ PARTS SELECT] TO ANYONE WHO NEEDS A PART, IF you pay attention to the video, you will find it not too difficult to repair.
Mr. PAUL KLUGH [KLU] THANK you PARTS SELECT. PS THEY would have replaced the part if need be.

The side rails on the crisper drawers had broken, and I had them replaced in 15 minutes or less! Very easy. I had also bought the bearing slides because it said I would need them, 3 for each rail, but the new rails came with the bearing slides on them, so I will be returning them,

Executed the repair just as outlined in the video provided encountered no surprises and the job went very smoothly. Thanks

Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.

It seems my refrigerator was old enough [1987] that the spacing on the holes for the bracket were different than the part that is currently sold. The holes on the new bracket were 30 mm apart on center, but on the old bracket they were 20 mm apart on center.

Clamped the old and new brackets together in a vise to use the old bracket for spacing and drilled a new hole through the 4mm of steel.

After which it was a snap installing the new hinge assembly.

I removed the door from the bottom hinge assembly by removing the top hinge assembly.
1. Installed the cam to the bottom of the door.
2. Installed hinge and bottom pin & cam to the refrigerator.
3. Reinstalled door and adjusted front roller height to make door close better.

I unloaded the door and took the cover off at the top of the upper hinge (1 phillips screw) I then unbolted the upper hinge (2-28mm bolts) and lifted the door off. I was surprised how light it was. I laid the door down and installed the new cam riser on the door. I then unbolted the lower hinge (2-28mm bolts)and installed the new hinge.
I lubed the 2 hinges with vaseline and put the door back on the lower hinge. I then reinstalled the upper hinge and cover. It took about 15 minutes, and a lot of that was cleaning up. Oh yes, to get at the lower hinge you have to pull off the lower grate that covers the coils. It just snaps off and on. It was a very easy job.

Emptied refrigerator door shelves. Supported door with 4x4 blocks. Removed old door hinge and replaced with new door hinge and cams. Pleased with end result and dealing with PartSelect.

I cleaned out the door and removed the top hinge. Lifted the door and layed it on the floor. Removed bottom hinge from refridgerator installed new hinge. Replaced plastic stop on door. Used broke hinge to align it and tighten. Lifted door onto new hinge and installed top hinge. Instead of buying $35 dollar hinge buy 2 plastic stops. You'll have to drill out a rivet on bottom hinge but it will save over $30.00.

I removed the top hinge by removing three screws, I then lifted the door off the bottem hinge and set it aside. I then removed the two screws holding the bottom hinge,removed it and installed the new part. I removed the broken part from the door by removing one screw-installed the new part and set the door in place and reinstalled the top hinge. The door is now properly aligned and working like new. I spent as much time writing this as I did on the repair

First I placed a 2x4 under the frig door to keep it in place while I removed the hinge on the bottom of the door. I removed two screws holding the hinge and one screw holding the washer in place. I also loosened a screw adjacent to the washer so that I could more easily remove and replace the washer. The parts went in easily. The repair took much less time than I anticipated.

I had to remove the 4 screws that holds the coil cover to the freezer then I had to thaw the coils with a hair dryer then removed the thermostat,unplugged the heater assembly,unscrewed the 4 screws that holds the heaters in, then reversed the process to put the new heater assembly in. It was simple!!

1) The large drawer is first removed from the guide that remained on the side wall.

2) Removal of the light shield from the rear of the glass shelf to facilitate glass shelf removal by lifting the rear edge of the glass and remove it.

3) Unscrew two phillips head screws holding the remaining pieces of the plastic guide to the interior side panel of the fridge.

4) Examine the replacement guide and insure that the nylon guide and stop parts are clicked into place. If unsure, look at the guide on the other side to ensure that both are present and completely seated before installation of the replacement guide. (These usually fall out of the guide during shipping and should be in the bag with the guide!)

5) Once the guide is outfitted with the nylon guides, secure the new guide with the two phillips screws and DO NOT over tighten, remember you are dealing with plastic guide and steel screws going into a steel cabinet.

6) Re-install the glass shelf, followed by the light shield and finally the large drawer which should slide out smoothly to the stop and back closed without any drag.

7) A successful installation usually includes giving the drawer and glass shelf a good cleaning that probably could be done to the entire fridge side of the unit.

I had this problem before and called a repair guy. He told me about the little freezer heater (WTF?) and showed me that it's basically a light bulb that wears out. He took off the back panel and showed me the metal plates with the tubes under neath. But he only had one bulb to replace with, so he only fixed one of the two. Total cost to "change a light bulb": $229
This time I ordered the part and did the work myself. It was totally easy, but that is because I knew what I was doing. The hardest part is squishing into the freezer to unscrew things. Before I took it all apart, I used my cellphone camera to take a picture of how it was (which wires went where), just in case after taking the old one off, I couldn't remember how to put the new one on. No problem. The actual part swap took ~5 min (unhooking and rehooking the temp gauge and the power connector). Most of the time was just unscrewing and screwing in the screws.