36348 Kenmore - Instructions

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

pretty straight forward,removed threw screws to replace the defrost timer and reverse the procedure. To replace the defrost unit 1st removed metal back plate in freezer. Step 2 defrost freezer. step 3 remove four screws that hold defrost elements in freezer compartment. Step 4 install new defrost elements and secure back in place with four screws. step 5 optional read old defrost heaters with ohm meter to confirm the defective part. step 6 plug back in frig and enjoy a cool brewski ahhhhh. By the way only one defrost element was bad (open) but as mentioned in literature which came with new derost elements I replaced both of them. Thanks again for all the help on this, saved me $2000 on a new frig.

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

Note difference between Freezer and Fresh food door.
Also, did not need the Door Stop but should have ordered one water tube union (PS299116). See Freezer below

Fresh Food Door
1. Removed cap at top of fresh food door (Philips screw) and used socket wrench to remove two hex head screws from top of refrigerator.
2. This allowed door to be lifted off base.
3. Removed door stop, hinge shim and broken cam riser from door using socket set and nut driver. Two hex head screws.
4. Replaced all three parts with new parts, re-attached using existing Hex Screws. Make sure cam riser is aligned properly to allow door to fit back on hinge. If it's slightly off, the door will not settle on hinge properly.
5. Replaced door, make sure it aligns properly before tightening Hex Screws to top of Refrigerator. Replaced cap at top.

Same process for freezer door except:
a. At the top of the door, I had an electrical connection due to Ice/water dispenser in the door. This connection is fairly easy to disconnect.
b. There is a drain tube that runs inside the door and through the hinge assembly in the base of the door. The door can not be removed unless the tube is disconnected or cut. There was a Water Tube Union (PS299116) just beyond the bottom hinge which I was able to disassemble to free the tube. However, this took considerable force and luck and I would recommend you consider buying a new part in case it breaks or you need to cut the tube. Otherwise you will not be able to get the door off. Once the tube is disconnected, it easily slides through the hinge and the door can be removed.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

After a little research I realized my problem could be one or possibly two components of three that caused the problem. Instead of changing one at a time, I took another approach. I just bought and changed all three to save time and prevent having to do the job all over again. Each time I would have to melt the ice off of the cooling coils and this is time consuming and annoying having to melt the ice repeatedly. I put a very accurate thermometer in the fridge and have been monitoring it since I changed the components. After one week it seems to be working fine keeping the fridge at 34-38 degree F.

Remove back cover, exposing fan motor. Turn off power, remove nut on fan blades. Remove fan carefully, do not bend. Unhook wiring harness. Remove three screws that hold the motor on the back frame. Remove old motor, install new. Carefully, reinstall fan blades, hook up wiring, and your ready for tryout. Also do some cleaning while your there. Clean old fan blades with hot soapy water or contact cleaner. Everything runs better clean!

After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Get 2 "door closing cams" yep. Same as some others here. Found some black plastic pieces on the floor, when door wasn't closing right. I took the door off by taking off the top bracket. Very easy. Bottom bracket has the broken cam riveted to it. Need hacksaw to get this off then punch it through with hammer and a screwdriver. This is the only part that took a little while. Replace the closing cam and find a small nut & bolt or screw to replace the rivet you just sawed in half. Replace the closing cam that is on the bottom the the door as well. Even if yours isn't broken. Replace it anyway. Put door back on and done. Not a diffucult project if you know about the rivet and needing 2 closing cams beforehand. Good luck

I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Removed the oven racks, removed screws holding element hanging support from roof of oven, removed screws holding plate of element to rear of oven. CAREFULLY worked element loose from back of oven and gently alternated pulling each side of element (near the base) until connecting wires came free of insulating batting. Pull too hard and the connecting wires can break loose and disappear behind the batting. Once freed, disconnected both wires with socket (use pliers for extra grip on flat part of connectors, if necessary), removed element, braced new element on bottom of oven, aligning connectors to now-free wires. Re-attached with the new screws that came with the element (attachment points on element are threaded; do not reuse old screws as the threads may not match), gently re-inserted element into insulating batting at rear of oven, reattached hanging support, then replaced element plate screws.

Can be difficult to work in small, deep ovens....many oven doors can be removed. If so, remove oven door and use a chair as a support...lie on your back on the chair and hang your head and arms in the oven.

I removed the screws holding the old element in place, then pulled it out a few inches from the back oven wall. Then I pulled the wires away from the old baking element (pulled off easily), and being careful to keep the wires on the same sides as before, pushed the new element on to the wires. It was then just a matter of inserting the wires and insulation back into the opening and tightening the screws. Simple!