36315212100 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the 4 screws on front inspection plate and had easy access to solenoid switch. Unplugged unit and switched out with repair kit. So easy a caveman could do it...

removed screen at back of dishwasher from the inside. Twisted piston & nut assembly out by hand and replaced with new one. Very, very simple. Dishwasher works perfectly now.

Your site is great! Saved me a service call for a repairman to come out and tell me what was wrong, order parts and then come back. Total repair was less than $90 including parts and shipping. It arrived in two days from when I ordered it. I ordered the replacement door gasket, the gasket insert and a new checkvalve. This was a super easy fix and I am a girl too boot! I am proud of myself!

I used a phillips screwdriver to take off about 8 screws off the white inner door fascia in order to replace the door seal. Keep this panel upright and do not lay it down since the rinse agent will leak out all over! Found out that the hard way.

Removed the old, dried out, outer door gasket, centered the notch that was on the new gasket at the top of the door and installed it all the way around in the door gasket groove. Installed the gasket insert at the bottom where the door gasket comes together on the bottom of the door.

After that was completed I used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the 4 hex screws at the back of the dishwasher for the cover that is over the check valve. It is white and has a very fine mesh screen.. so easy to identify.

The old check valve was filled with crud and and the rubber was deteriorated. I just backed the old one out counterclockwise and put in the new one, a little better than finger tight. Replaced the cover and the hex screws with the 1/4" nutdriver.

Reinstalled the white inner door panel, insure the door handle comes through the hole in the front prior to attaching your screws back in place. Closed the dishwasher. Ran it on rinse/hold cycle to make sure no leaks before going for a full wash. Works great and drains now too.

Your site is a lifesaver! Thanks!!!

First let me say, it's so easy even a caveman can do it. I removed the water out of the bottom. Then I removed the cover in the very back of the machine with a wrench. As soon as I did that, I could see the piston. Next, I twisted the white piston out with my fingers (this was the hardest part). I could see the piston had partially disintigrated. I ordered a new one, had it delivered in a few days, and put it all back in reverse. It took minutes. Thanks to the guy that posted his story, I was able to fix mine for $18.

First I opened the dishwasher and removed the lower basket. Next I removed the 4 screws that hold the food filter plate in place at the back of the tub. Then I unscrewed the Piston/Check Valve assembly counterclockwise, located at the back center of the tub, by hand. I replaced the old part with the new one and reinstalled the filter plate. I ran a rinse cycle to verify that that all of the water was purged. Finally, I reinstalled the lower basket and resumed using my dishwasher.

I removed the end caps on the two side tracks using pliers. I pulled out the old rack and inserted the new one. I replaced the end caps and I was done. It was that simple.

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

The replacement of the motor and pump assembly went smoothly and without difficulty however this did not fix the problem. It then appeared that the inlet water valve was not operating properly, so this part was ordered and instlled, a very simple proceedure that could be done witrhout removving fthe dishwasher from its cabinet. -- Again failure to run -- the timer assembly and electronic panel were then removed and examined. The control panel had no visible defects, so the timer assemblyand its cover was removed and examined . Uing a variable power supply the drive motor for the timer was energized and tested. As the motor ran properly the electrical switching contacts were then carfully checked, it was discovered that one contact set was heavily pitted and burned. These contacts were carefully cleaned and pollished with 1000 grit sanding paper. The actuator leaves were examined and two sets were found to be slightly out of alignment. The leaves on these sets were bent slightly to insure they were in line with the rest of the leaf serts. It was then noted that the rotating leaf('s) actuator had a home position indicated by a molded depression at one location and the motor was energized using approximately 5 volts ( a nine volt battery could also be used as a poer supply) observing prolper polarity to run the rotator until the home position was established and the actuator rods paul dropped into this depression. The assembly was then replaced in the diswasher using care to make sure that the actuation arm and spring were positioned properly weith the arrow end of the arm located in the recesss of of the rotating timer disk use care in placing the assembly and do not lose the sping which attaches to a mounting post and the arm. You may want to take a picture of the spring and arm locations when you rwmove the timer assembly to properly re-assemble all components, the repaired unit was placed back in its cabinet and a full cycle run to establish proper operation. And unit checked ok! Some of these proceedures are not for the weak of heart. I am a retired engineer who has been repairing my own equipment since graduation. .

Removed filter/screen by unscrewing 2 screws with a nut driver and then unscrewed the old Piston and Nut assembly and simply screwed in the new part. Problem solved and my dishes are much cleaner and the water is draining out completely. Easy fix for this frustrating problem.

First I removed the bottom dishwasher rack. Using a 1/4" nutdriver I removed (4) 1/4" screws from the drain cover that is inside the dishwasher all the way in the back. This will allow you to get to the piston and nut assembly which was easily removed with no tools by simply grasping and unscrewing. Used a wash cloth to wipe "gunk" from around the threads. I then screwed the new piston and nut assembly in place. Used no tools to tighten, just "snug up" by hand. The seal on my old piston and nut assembly was 50 percent gone, not sealing at all. I guess the years had taken their toll. This solved my problem. The dishwasher washes and drains as it should. Super easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes to do the repair.

Removed filter screen with the socket set, removed the piston and nut assembly with pliers, and installed the new piston and nut assembly. Put filter screen back in with hex head screws. During the process, I opened the float regulator and cleaned it out too. Water backup problems solved.

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

This was one of those wonderful repairs where anything went right.
The part arrived overnight as ordered and even though I was abit leary of it fitting, since it was described as a replacement/new design, it fit perfectly! As mentioned in another post here, draining the water out of the unit so I could tip it over to do the replacement was the hardest part!
I'm sure I saved over $100 doing it myself. Thanks PartSelect!

Removed the 4 screws holding the filter screen assembly in the back of the tub. This exposed the Piston and Nut assembly which unscrewed fairly easily.
Replaced with the new part, put the filter screen assembly back in place ran the machine. The machine still stops with the blocked arm message - just not as frequently. The web researched fix with the piston and nut assembly replacement was obviously not the final answer. I am now out of options I believe except to bite the bullet and get a new machine. Any other suggestions are welcomed.