3631417 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Had to install a new door latch. The installation itself is really quite simple involving removing (separating) the inner door panel to access the latch assembly. The latch is removed by simple push through one slot with a screw driver and the new unit basically pops in through grooved slots. However, I did find it quite helpful to first (and during) review a YouTube video illustrating the replacement. Although it is largely a simple procedure, for the first-time "installer" there are still a few tricky nuances to be aware of.

This was really easy. The parts fit perfectly. First i turn off power at circuit panel; turn off water and dissconnected water line and discharge hose. Removed dishwasher from under counter and placed on side. Disconnected connections to motor and pump and replaced and installed same as one unit.

I unscrewed the front of the door almost to the bottom hinges and removed the latch. Went on line and ordered a replacement. The replacement arrived in a couple days (yeh), was identical to the one I had removed. I could have used another hand but went ahead and replaced it myself. It worked perfectly and I screwed everything back in place. I'm a 73-year-old female, good at taking things apart but not always good at putting them back together but will try anything. Was elated that I could repair it and it actually worked. Great service from your company!

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Dishwasher is 22 years old and I'm 80 years old so it took longer, about 3 hours. After removing, turned upside down and removed old pump-motor assembly and replaced with new following directions [which took a little while to figure out; my assembly was quite a bit different from the replacement pump-motor]. Pleasantly surprised at how quiet the dishwasher now runs. Normally I would replace this old an appliance, but this unit has provision for inserting a wood panel that blends with the cabinets and a new GE dishwasher with this feature costs $1300 MSRP. I'm trying to save money for when I get old so I decided to do the repair myself. For $150 it was a worthwhile investment.

Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.

Instead of purchasing a new dishwasher, I elected to replace the motor/pump assembly which the existing was noisy and leaking water. To start to took pictures of the existing assembly and marked the wiring connections. I read the instructions a few times until I fully understood and had the necessary parts identified. The only problem was the bracket that holds the solenoid has two holes for mounting the drain feedback bracket were not threaded. I was able to tap the holes (metric) and mount the bracket. Caution must taken not damage the solenoid coil.

Too easy- what made it easier was this is a portable roll-around unit I could lay on it's back. Loosen the two clamps around the washer pump, hook up the drain solenoid, washer motor wires, attach the motor hanger, that's basically it. It took longer to make sure I was working from the right set of instructions- this pump covers several models. Once I had that right, it was really a snap. Now the unit is so quiet. It once sounded like a jet engine in the kitchen, now it runs so quiet you can hear the water splashing around inside- a big improvement. We should be able to hang onto this thing for a while longer.

I am so pleased with Parts Select. I placed my order on Sunday night and the parts were here on Tuesday morning. the install went well except for a small handful of spare parts! Anyway it looks like new and runs with no leaks.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.