36273422202 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.

1st ensure thermostat is intact, I thought it was broken but upon further investigation I noticed that one of the screws that hold the thermostat in place had came loose which cause the thermostat knob not to be able to turn the thermostat stem. Re-installed thermostat mounting screw and it worked just fine.

On each side of the door at the top you will find an allen screw, remove those to remove the cover plate. This will prevent the new glass from sitting flush with the door, if not removed. On the inside of the door, you will find two more silver hex screws, these release the glass frame. On the flimsy part that seperates from the main door frame, there are two small brackets that hold the glass panel at the bottom of the door. Carefully pry out all the ramaining glass shards, and believe me they are there, so be very careful and vacuum up immediately to prevent cuts later. The glass frame will be very wobbly, so position yourself in front and place one knee up to support the frame and place the new glass panel in the bottom slot first, then just hold it up, and reinstall the top brackets. These fit tightly on the glass, so expect to have to push a bit. Now reinstall the screws, fold both parts together, use the silver screws to reconnect the glass panel assembly to the door frame.My oven door handle never had to come off.

First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.

Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove.
Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY

I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.

All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.

Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute

To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."

Unplug the range from its wall socket to avoid electric shock. The various range parts that support a pot or frypan are easily lifted off their perches, exposing the small white igniter. The only moderately difficult aspect is wiggling the igniter out of its retainer. The electric wire leading into it then can be pulled out and fed into the new igniter with a push. Replace igniter in its retainer, then replace the range parts you removed to expose the igniter and plug the range back into the wall socket. Piece of cake.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

The repair was somewhat easy, it would have been easiere if I had figured out the right part in the first place! Replacing the Thermostat is a simple task and actually only took abut 10 minutes. The harder task was replacing the glow bar in the broiler area! What a pain! The part had the same gender connector as the existing wiring. Had to cut the connectors off and use ceramic wire nuts... should be simple but the wires on the replacement part were about 1/2 inch too short! After some creative manuvering and about an hour of cussing out the OEM part manufacturer it went together and worked OK but I suggest before trying to solve a problem like this remember the basics... always check the obvious first!

New bake tube fit perfectly.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

No longer carry the one to our stove so it was substituted with Nafisa on it. You could see all the electronics so we had to pry the old face off the old one blew it in place, but a clock was reversed from timer, but it works.

the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.