31203PAA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

I first switched the old burner to a new position and different ignitor wiring. The problem persisted in both places, so I bought a new burner assembly and now the burner lights immediately. Very happy and a very simple replacement.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

I was looking at replacing the stove and saw the $1200.00 price tag! So I found this web site and paid $100.00 to fix my old one. It was very simple. I twisted off the old burners by sliding off the two connecting wires. Cleaned the area around the seating area of the burners. Hooked the wires on the new burners and twisted them back in place! Tested them to insure that was the problem and was done! Thank you for saving me $1100.00!!! Next I am getting grates so the whole stove will look band new!

Instead of buying a new range my son said he could replace the part so I looked your company up on internet and had it shipped. Three days later I was cooking with gas again! Thanks!

Just like the example I removed the oven base, removed the two screws holding the igniter. Pulled out the wires opened the connector, plugged in the new igniter put everything back and turned on the oven. The oven now lights better than it did when new. And it holds a steady temp.

Took off the top plate at the bottom of the oven, and the flame spreader, removed 2 screws on the igniter, pulled out the broiler tray and unplugged it. Took longer to get off the floor than it did to replace the part.

Removed grates and bottom plate two screws holding it. Turn oven light on and unwire the wire. Unscrewed the two screws and replace. This took my husband about ten min. And for him he says that this was a walk in the park. He says if he can do it anyone can. This was one of the easy honey dews. Good luck with yours. Nola & keith

First I did was to google the problem I have. There several video how to solve the problem. It show me different ways to solve my problem. I just follow the instructions. Thank to google without it, I am lost. I may add, that google is a big saver for me.

Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!

Make sure all burners on stove top are off.Half twist burner top to separate burner from stove top.The burner slide fits over the metal tube that transports the gas to the burner.Remove the 2 slip fit connected wires from the underside of the burner.They should be of different sizes so no worries about incorrectly re-attaching them.The igniter has 2 philips screws holding the igniter to the burner, Remove those and the igniter will be able to be removed with a little wiggling.Insert new igniter thru the hole in the burner and secure with the 2 screws. Reattach wires , place burner back on top making sure the wires aren't being crimped when the burner slides over the aforementioned metal tube and twist burner to seat in stove top, turn on burner to confirm igniter now ignites properly.

Used pliers to remove clips and old seal. Snap in new seal. DONE! Less than 5 mins.

I took pliers to get the old one off, and popped the new one back in its place, and it fit perfect.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

Very easy, video helped tremendously