3100PPA-K Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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Oven wouldn't light
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
Parts Used:
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michael from newhall, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven would'nt heat
First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly
Parts Used:
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Ariel from Oxford, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
Parts Used:
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Vincent from Lewes, DE
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 2 people
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Oven would not lite
Unplug electric cord,turn off gas,replace parts,check for gas leaks.Done....
Parts Used:
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martin from rockdale, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
2 of 6 people
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Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
Parts Used:
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Linford from Cedarville, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven wouldn't ignite
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
Parts Used:
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Anatoly from Palatine, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.
Parts Used:
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Raymond from Jersey City, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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oven would not heat up
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Albert from Charlotte, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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The floor panel of the oven was pocked and in bad shape
I found the panel on the innernet, ordered it and when it arrived I removed the old one and replaced it with the new one.
Parts Used:
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Roger from San Juan Capistrano, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Oven wouldn't reheat once it was on
Figured it had to be the ignitor. I didn't use a multi-meter. Since the appliance was so old, if the $50 igniter didn't do the trick, I'd just replace the oven. Install was super easy, and now oven works great!!!
Parts Used:
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Marc from Melville, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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Lower burner failed to light, broiler running fine
Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."
Parts Used:
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Christian from Washington, DC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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oven wouldn't get hot
well my brother was over,he said he had the same stove with the same symtoms so we removed bottom tray of oven lifting from the back first then the front.there inback is the igniter.pulled wire out carefully and unplugged and unscrewed 2 small bolt's,replaced igniter remembering it is very fragile,plugged igniter in replaced insulation around wire,saved me from a new oven,thank you partsselect.ps part arrived the next day wow
Parts Used:
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scott from newtown, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Oven wouldn't light.
I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
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Roberta from Los Angeles, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Gas valve would not open
I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.
Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.
Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.
Parts Used:
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Frankie from Carlsbad, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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oven ignighter would glow, but oven would not work
I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.
Parts Used:
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graham from littleton, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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