31003KAAD Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions
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igniter glowed, but oven would not light or stay lit
The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identical electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!
Parts Used:
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Daniel from Grafton, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven wouldn't light
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
Parts Used:
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michael from newhall, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven would'nt heat
First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly
Parts Used:
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Ariel from Oxford, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
Parts Used:
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Vincent from Lewes, DE
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven.
Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
Parts Used:
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Linford from Cedarville, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 3 people
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The floor panel of the oven was pocked and in bad shape
I found the panel on the innernet, ordered it and when it arrived I removed the old one and replaced it with the new one.
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Roger from San Juan Capistrano, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.
Parts Used:
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Raymond from Jersey City, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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oven would not heat up
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Albert from Charlotte, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Oven wouldn't ignite
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
Parts Used:
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Anatoly from Palatine, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Oven Was Dead
This oven was purchased in 1992 . Hardest & time consuming issue was getting the old part out. First unplug unit from outlet. Take off oven door(very easy to do). Take out oven racks & lift out bottom of oven(also simple to do). Pull out storage drawer all the way out & put aside out of your way. Take off burner baffle. This is held on with 1 butterfiy screw. This igniter plugs in the same way a phone slips into the jack. Use a flash light if needed. Where you pulled the storage drawer out from all the way in the back pull out the connection holding the old ignition wires into the oven(this is the phone type part spoke of above). Go back into the oven & un screw the 2 screws that hold in the igniter to the bake burner pipe. Now you can carefully pull out the old igniter since you already unpluged it earlier. Slip connection wires from new igniter in the same hole old was pulled from in back of oven. Screw the 2 screws into the new igniter to hold it to the bake burner pipe. Go back down to the storage draw space & plug into bottem back. Replace storage drawer. Replace burner baffle. Replace bottem of oven making sure to seat it in correctly. Replace door . Remember to connect to electric again & you should be good to go. I would like to now say something about the excellent service received from parts select. They have an excellent user friendly site & I received my part the next day.
Parts Used:
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IRIS from BROOKLYN, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Oven burner would night ignite
Replaced the ceramic glow ignitor by removeing the two screws holding it to the mounting bracket. Gas and electric were tturned off. Unplugged the ignitor from rear of oven. Installed new switch in the same way and if worked perfect. Part was ordered online for $48. I saved one hundred dollars by doing it myself. My outdoor grill was harder than this.
Parts Used:
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Douglas from Hanover Park, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven would't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I
attached the new element with the two new screws and connected the two wires and then I turned the oven on and had heat immediately. It's real simple to do..this makes the third time that I have installed this particular part but my Magic Chef wall oven will soon be 20 yrs old. Thank you for making do-it-yourself so easy!!!
attached the new element with the two new screws and connected the two wires and then I turned the oven on and had heat immediately. It's real simple to do..this makes the third time that I have installed this particular part but my Magic Chef wall oven will soon be 20 yrs old. Thank you for making do-it-yourself so easy!!!
Parts Used:
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Sidney from Hindman, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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My Gas Oven Wasn't Lighting and it Scared Me!
I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.
I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.
I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.
I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.
I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.
Parts Used:
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Kim from Cedar River, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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On/off sputter of stove. Ignitor/glow bar problem.
Removed door. Removed bottom linerin stove that cover burner. Unplugged old ingnitor. unscrewed old ignitor. Removed old ignitor. Screwed in new ignitor. Plugged in new ignitor. Checked function. Put door back on and bottom liner back in. Took less than 15 minutes. One of the easiest repairs ever.
Parts Used:
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Anthony from Camillus, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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gas would go on and off -- oven slow to heat
Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Evanston, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
0 of 1 people
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