285847D Frigidaire Range - Instructions

After diagnosing the problem, I entered the Tappan Model #, found the part needed, and ordered from Part Select. On receipt (2 day delivery), I followed the instructions enclosed with the ignitor, and within 30 minutes, had everything up and running. Thanks PART SELECT!

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

Removed oven door. (two screws)
Removed racks.
Removed oven floor. (two finger screws)
Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut)
Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven
(1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect.
Disconnected power.
Removed element (two square drive screws)
Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new
with ceramic wire nuts supplied.
Installed new element, reversed proceedure.
Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy!
Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20
once you know what tools to lay out.

I had no experience working on the stove before so it was all new to me. Removed the top cover. Removed the igniters and the burner connections which allowed access to the splash pan. Removed the splash pan and replaced the two broken tubes. Job would have been faster had I known how to access the front burner controls. As a result, we have a fully functioning Tappan range in our kitchen and the range is much better than anything commercially available. They don't make em like that anymore.

first i removed the bottom of the oven [inside the oven] ,the part was right there,i removed 2 screws and unpluged the wires,then i cut the wire ends off the old part and used the wirenuts that came with the new one to hook them to the new part,then put it back in place,put the screws back in put the bottom back in and was done

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

I unplugged the stove then pulled the disconnected the wires that controled the igniter. I took the two screws off that held the igniter to the pilot port. I hand to cut the wires on the new igniter to some-what match the lenght of the broken igniter. Then I cut the connectors from the old part and used the fire resistant wire nutes that where included with the new igniter and connected it all. Put all the screws in tight, double checked every thing. Finally I plugged it in and it was working.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place.I then pulled the element out and cut the wires.I used wire nuts to put the new wirers on and put it back in place with the two screws.I tried it and it worked perfect.

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

first thing was to remove the crushed guide with pliers and a twist it was out. to install the new one islipped one side into the slot and took pliers and applied pressure on the lower glide into the slot; it was done presto. works like new. thanks,
Fred . it was so reasonable i got a spare.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

first I emptied the contents of the drawer,then pulled drawer open to it's fullest, then lifted drawer so as to tilt slightly, then removed drawer by continuing to pull straight out. then I removed the glide from its protective packaging and inserted it in the same spot as the broken glide was at one time