25357687791 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The defrost timer is located under the freezer side behind the lower plastic cover. Very simple, just 2 screws and a plug, and your done.

The thermostat requires removing the lower drawers in the freezer and unscrew the back side of the rails and let them hang over to get access to the lower cover on the back of the freezer. Once the panel is off you will be able to see the thermostat. From there you just remove the thermostat from the clip, cut the 2 wires, splice in the new thermostat and re install using the new clip and your done!!

This was my first time and it was really simple. I had a local repair shop quote me $375.00 . I did it myself for under 50.00 shipped to my door..

tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.

I could not believe just how fast my order came to my house! The drawers fit perfectly..just like the old ones.

I would highly recommend your company.

Thank you for having the right part for my refrigerator and the expedicious delivery of my order.

the first purchase was the drawer support. that helped, but in the process of replacing the support, we noticed that the drawer was also broken. bought the drawer and a roller that we had inadvertently thrown away with the broken piece of the support.

used a screwdriver to replace the roller. delivery was terrific. the parts fit. nice job.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

After ordering part on friday morning, saturday evening I was installing new handle on. 4 screws, install trim, trim slides over handle and fastens in.

I unscrewed the cover, took out old filter, put in new filter and replaced cover. End of story. Oh...don't forget to turn off the incoming water supply.

Removed broke bracket. Installed new bracket (part #100). Now, everything is O-TAY!

Turn off power. Remove ice tray. Back out the two screws with nut driver and just lift ice maker off screws. Do not bend the water fill tube in the back . Now unplug the wire and remove ice maker .
To replace, match the color of wires on plug. Adjust wires in place and water fill tube and back on to the screws. Hold in place and snug screws. Turn power back on. In 4 to 5 hours your ice will start .
FED-EX UT to MN was 13 days to deliver .

My hand turned the water filter casing around until it unscrewed and then I put in the new water filter.
Screwed the casing tight and I was finished.

Simply unscrewed cover on water filter and pulled old filter out. New filter comes with o-ring on filter. Simply reversed procedure and installed new filter.

removed water tray, used a razor blade to brake the seal from the face plate and the fridge, The hardest part was the three screws holding the dispenser face place on where rusted over. I wound up drilling them out. Once the screws removed, a slight lift, the face plate comes right off. I unplugged the cable, and set it aside. Now remove the next three screws, and the dispenser falls forward, (as far as the water line allows) undo the screws leaving the one emplace to hold the ice lever. push up twist. The hard part is getting the new one up and in. just takes a little patients.

Removed four screws at top and two at bottom and pulled ice maker unit out and replaced with the new lever .

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.