25344359407 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

The repair could not be completed. I ordered a thermostat defrost kit but received a collar arbor for a saw. They do not answer the phone at customer service and the order took close to two weeks to get in the first place. Beware of shopping at this site!

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Took me weeks to find the noise after I checked everything electrical in the house including replacing all batteries. Finally, an electrician isolated it to the refrigerator.

Frigidaire Model FRS26LH5DS9 Found several YouTube videos for reference.

Replaced the Run Capacitor and Compressor Start Relay.

Unplug and remove the back panel. On the bottom left side, detach the two old parts together from the compressor. Use a large flat screwdriver to pry them out. (They are held in place with a wire you must first remove.) Plug one new part onto the other and then insert it as one part.

Easy Peasy. The hardest part is getting your hand in a small space and putting back the wire that holds them in.

Don't call a repairman - fix it yourself....

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

turn off ice maker, unplug electoral connection, under bottom of ice maker, remove two screws (hex) under bottom of ice maker, lift up on it to unhook it, take it out. (dump out all ice ). remove back plate on back of ice maker (two screws), the solenoid is held in place with two brass screws, remove them, then remove ground wire from solenoid and two wires, that connect to it,(make a note of how wires go back !). put it all back together and your good to go. . i dont think its really the solenoid that goes out, its the housing that encases it, and you have to buy another solenoid thats encased. good luck

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.