25344353405 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

There is PG and E employee working in one of the electrical post that cause the electric surging,there is a 3 big bang then we smell burning wire.it blew and burned the compressor relay,so what i did is figure it out, all 2 refregirator fan is running the heater is working,but its not cooling, when I touch the compressor there is no vibration,so all i did is removed the compressor relay, and I found out that the wire is burned and melted the connector, i order the relay from parts select and install it.1.remove the capacitor and install it to the new relay. 2.put a new connecrtor from the wire.3. install the compressor relay.easy as 1,2,3.

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

I used pliers to get the remaining shelf support studs out, then the new ones just snapped right in place. Very easy repair!

Took the old one out, put in the new one, and after a couple of days, had a bucket full of ice. I had been fighting this problem since within the first year of purchase of the refrigerator. It's so great to open the freezer door and see it full of ice!!!

I ordered the part from PartSelect using the part number located on the valve itself. The part was delivered in less than 48 hours from the time I entered it. Replacing the valve was easy and went according to the online video instructions provided by PartSelect. The only thing extra was that I had to replace the brass compression fitting on the copper tubing connected to the inlet of the valve. The old one would not seal properly. The compression fitting was about $1.50 at Home Depot. This is my third purchase from PartSelect and I continue to be impressed by them.

removed water tray, used a razor blade to brake the seal from the face plate and the fridge, The hardest part was the three screws holding the dispenser face place on where rusted over. I wound up drilling them out. Once the screws removed, a slight lift, the face plate comes right off. I unplugged the cable, and set it aside. Now remove the next three screws, and the dispenser falls forward, (as far as the water line allows) undo the screws leaving the one emplace to hold the ice lever. push up twist. The hard part is getting the new one up and in. just takes a little patients.

Took me weeks to find the noise after I checked everything electrical in the house including replacing all batteries. Finally, an electrician isolated it to the refrigerator.

Frigidaire Model FRS26LH5DS9 Found several YouTube videos for reference.

Replaced the Run Capacitor and Compressor Start Relay.

Unplug and remove the back panel. On the bottom left side, detach the two old parts together from the compressor. Use a large flat screwdriver to pry them out. (They are held in place with a wire you must first remove.) Plug one new part onto the other and then insert it as one part.

Easy Peasy. The hardest part is getting your hand in a small space and putting back the wire that holds them in.

Don't call a repairman - fix it yourself....