25331427103 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the instructional video and did what it said.

Googled it on Youtube - unplugged the fridge, used a paint scraper to loosen the old light switch, unplugged it from the electrical source, connected the new switch, replaced the whole unit into the proper location and pushed it firmly into place.

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

I just followed the instructions on the videos.

I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.

Very easy process. Watch the YouTube video, it goes step by step for the repair. The part was $33, shipping was $6. Take your time and fix it yourself or pay $500 for a new refrigerator.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Figuring out how to remove the cracked door rack was the most complication I had. Once I figured out how to push it up it was easy to remove and then replace it with the new part by just placing it over the nobs and pushing down. No tools needed, just hands.

Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch.
Now what?

Used a flat head screwdriver to pop out the old switch, removed the contacts and placed on the new switch, popped the switch back in. Done in about 2 minutes.

Remove lower cardboard refrigerator panel. Carefully pull existing cracked fan blade off of the motor shaft and replace with new fan blade. Reinstall cardboard panel.