2458 Range - Instructions

It was amazingly easy! I am a woman who was a little afraid to deal with wires. But it was just so super easy! And, I saved a bundle by doing it myself! Here's how I did it:
(1) UNPLUGGED OVEN FROM WALL!!!
(2) Remove floor of oven (1 screw)
(3) Remove large metal strip underneath oven floor (2 screws)
(4) Removed oven igniter (2 screws)
(5) Marked top wire of old igniter before cutting
(6) Cut both wires close to old igniter
(7) Removed a little of the covering of the old wires to expose bare wire
(8) Matched up old top wire with new top wire & twisted both old wires to the new wires
(9) Replaced all screws and oven parts

Step one - Diagnose. Used a clamp-on ammeter around the igniter lead to check if 3.6 amps or greater were present during ignition. Only about 2.5 amps were measured, indicating that the igniter was bad.

Step two - Ordered the part.

Installation - Removed the racks and bottom oven compartment cover plates, exposing the igniter/burner assembly. Removed the bottom drawer, cut the wires of the existing igniter (leaving plenty of wire left for the new one). Removed the igniter/burner assembly through the oven compartment. Removed the old igniter from the burner, installed the new one. Re-seated the igniter/burner assembly, routing the wires appropriately. Stripped the existing leads (cut in previous step), spliced the new leads in, soldered the connection (soldering is optional). Taped up the splices with electrician's tape. Turned on the oven to verify that the new igniter glowed and the burner lit. Turned off the oven and waited for the burner to cool. Replaced the bottom cover plates and rack.

Final step - Baked some bread.

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

Unplug power, remove draw, marked and cut wires, unscrewed and removed old igniter, replaced and screwed new igniter into position, reconnected wires with supplied porcelin wire nuts, replace draw, plug in and tried...working great.

order pcs fit perfect.

Disconnect appliance from electricity source! Removed oven grates and the solid oven floor by removing the two screws and lifting up. Removed the piece of metal covering the oven igniter. Unscrewed oven igniter, snipped the wires close to the old igniter (read some of the better descriptions on how to do this). Reconnected new wires to the existing ones and used the ceramic wire covers that came with the new igniter and pushed the wires back through the opening in the rear of the oven. Screwed the new igniter in place. We actually had to unscrew the little metal box on the back of the oven to get to the wires which was easier to work there with connecting the wires. It was a little difficult reaching into the stove since we didn't remove the oven door.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.

Checked internet for possible reasons why oven would not heat.

Found Partselect.com website. Searched and found that ignitor was probably the problem.

Put in my oven model number and found ignitor. Ordered ignitor.

When new ignitor came in I simply removed two screws that held old ignitor and disconnected two wire.
Put new ignitor on, replaced screws and wires.

Repair done and oven works great.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) discovering a burnt spot in the element sent me searching for a new one. I couldn't find any locally, so I continued my search to the internet. This is when I came in contact with PartsSelect.com .
They made identifing the part and ordering so easy it was unbelievable. Super fast deliverey astounded me as well. The installation of the new element was reverse of the old. All of the dimensions and info for the part were right there on this site. Thanks

First I had to slide the stove out of its cubby and then I removed the two screws holding on the shield. I next removed the wires going to the spark module. I removed the top screw and loosened the bottom one. Installed the new spark module in reverse order. Less than 15 minutes for whole repair. Still have problems with spark module not working if oven is on, but I think it is because there is no air circulation behind the stove.

Took out the old & easily replace it with the new set. No tools required.

Warning- we found a lot of bare wires in this stove, check your wires before replacing the bad switches. I lifted the top, disconnected the power, pulled off the knobs, unscrewed the switch for the back light, removed seven screws to finally get the front panel off. Once you have the front panel off, changing the swich takes less than a minute. The switches just slide off the gas valve stems. Instructions show how to line up the new D-shaped switch mechanism to match the D-shaped shaft. Gently pull the two wires off the old switch and slide onto the new switch. Then put the panel back.

Turned the range/oven off at the breaker box. Pulled all the racks out. Unscrewed two screws holding lower heating element in. Pulled the heating element out to expose connections. Unhooked connections, plugged in new element. Replaced the screws. Turned breaker back one. Pretty simple!

Our original oven ignitor went bad. The gas supply won't even open, unless the oven senses the proper voltage / resistance across the ignitor, so that gas won't be flowing without ignition.

PartSelect was very good about providing me with the proper part, after I got the part number from their schematics and wiring diagrams, on the website. The first replacement part actually arrived, broken, from shipping, but when I called them, they immediately reprocessed the order, and sent me a new ignitor, to arrive the following day. I was very satisfied with their professionalism, as I've been in the past with them, as well.

On to the actual repair:

I removed the broiler drawer from the drawer slides, reached under the main oven chamber, unscrewed the two screws holding the ignitor in place, and cut / disconnected the two wires supplying the power to it.

I then put the new ignitor in place and screwed it back to the mount, used the wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect / splice the wires, and put the broiler drawer back in place.

Oven fired right up!

Entire process took less than 35 minutes. (Likely would've taken a bit longer, but this is the second replacement for the ignitor, since we've owned this oven, so I already had a good idea how to do it. (The first replacement for this particular part was NOT from PartSelect, so we're hopeful this one lasts a while longer than the previous one.)

Thanks, PartSelect!