22306 ((1988)) Kenmore Range - Instructions

Attached spring to damper, placed on existing 5" duct and secured. Used screwdriver to attach vent cover to damper.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

I removed the old knobs and replaced with the new ones. We also replaced one of the switches which the knobs fit on, because I broke the switch off with a Cast iron skillet.

I lifted off the old knobs, pushed on the new. Easy and the cooktop looks brand new!

The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part.
Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws.
turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good.
It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available

Unscrewed old cap, installed new

removed all for knobs and replced with new ones

I pulled off the other 3 old knobs. Pushed on the new ones, which pushed on hard, but work. They stick out farther than the originals. They look a little different, but only to me. No one else would notice.
The main part is, it works. A little spenty for my taste, but did not know where else to go and they arrived very quick.

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

our cook top is so old, but no need to replace just yet. so I ordered new knobs to get a new look
thank you!