2217382N710 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I'm the maintenance supervisor at an apartment complex. While installing a new dishwasher for a tenant, I inadvertently cross-threaded the swivel connector to the fill valve. The valve was ruined and couldn't be repaired. I ordered a new valve (it was an OEM) and installed it. Simple switch out, plus the video from Parts Select showed I had done it right.

Remove and replace by hand, no tools required

The dishwasher is 25 years old. Ordering the part was simple. Very good web site and user friendly. The shipment and delivery perfect. Part arrived as predicted. Tracking delivery was also perfect. Part was exactly what I needed. The only hitch was that there were no instructions for assembly, not even a drawing of the assembly to give a hint as how to assemble. Therefiore assembly took longer than it should have. However the diswasher is back in operation and I am pleased with the results.

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

As stated above the repair did not go well because the gasket was too wide and the door would close. Suggest you talk with Whirlpool about the part they sold you for my model of dishwasher.

Watched video, removed the door gasket and replaced

Turned water off. Removed dishwasher from under the counter, replaced hose, reinstalled dishwasher under the counter.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.

I checked the manual to determine the code meaning for 7 blinks, it was heating issue. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. When the part came in, I googled the internet for "How to replace a dishwasher heating element". There were several options, I chose one that was a video showing a handyman go through each step. I followed the steps, with no problems, and WA-LA! Felt good (as the wife of the house) to do it myself!

this job is cake. worst part is removing dishwasher from cabinet. Disconnect water , drain , and power. reove mounting screws in upper door area. Pull unit out and lay it on its face. unplug two wire leads and remove big nuts. Roll unit upright and replace heater. roll unit back over and tighten nuts and plug leads back in. It really takes two minutes to replace heater once the unit is out of cabinet.

Disconnected power,water supply and drain.Had to pull dishwasher out to access the heater element nuts. Removed broken element and replaced with new part. Repair very easy!

Changed the seal first, very easy, no tools needed either. Helped a little, but still leaking a lot. Changed the lower spray arm and that did it. The video I watched before changing the seal helped a lot, definitely do that first.

Unscrewed bottom panel of the dishwasher and simply replaced the bad control switch with the new one.