21962A Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old fan; cut the wire and spliced in the new fan and reassembled. A little over one hour. Refrig is working perfectly now with lower settings. It is definitely off much more than on now.

just had to remove the fan motor the hard thing is getting down to it

First, watched video on Part Select Website. Very good. Pulled Appliance out from wall, Pulled the power plug, and removed the back shield covering the working parts of the unit. Found the fan and it was almost the same setup as on the video except that I could not get to one of the screws holding the motor in place so had to remove the entire bracket with the fan. Not too hard. Cleaned away dust and gunk around the site and noticed that the fan pulled air through a tunnel-like condenser coil that was packed with gunky lint...this is what probably killed the motor. I cleaned out the tunnel with the bottle brushes and vacuum and installed the new motor / bracket assembly. Then replaced the shielding around the fan and the back cover .panel. This is important because these form the channel that guides air flow throughout the condenser coils. This particular refrigerator has a barrier underneath which guides air flow from the front left to the condenser, through the fan, over the evaporator drip pan and out the right front. I cleaned all the lint and gunk from this area as well. I also made an air filter (cut from a furnace filter) and wedged it in front of the air entry section. This should keep the condenser coil cleaner over time but you have to remember to change the filter once a year. Probably should clean the condenser coil every 5 years as well. This unit has been very reliable over 20 years and may well go for another 20. Good luck with your repair.

I have an Amana freeze and I followed the procedure in the video. Which is very good! However on the Amana Model there two slight differences in the procedure that I felt I needed to do. The first one is, the condenser fan bracket is attached to the Freezer chassis with 4 screws, not three. The removal and installation of the back screw by the fan is a bear. I removed the other three and it allowed me to rotate the fan slightly to get more access to the fourth and did same on installation by just starting the 4th screw and then tightening it later. The second issue was my new fan hit the housing when I spun the fan. When I looked at the old one. It had a phenolic washer, between the fan and motor which spaces the fan out about a washer thickness from the motor. When I tried to remove the old one it broke in four pieces due to age. So, I made my own with a washer that I super glued to the motor housing after carefully centering it on and clearing the motor shaft . Seemed to work with out any more noise or balance issues...Thanks, your delivery was blindly fast and video was great!

I removed the cover that protects the freezing tubes, they were frozen solid,used my heat gun to melt away the ice, being very careful not to burn any wires. Then I removed the old heating coils,connected the new ones, replaced the cover and I was done. The thing that took the most time was melting the ice, you cant do it in a hurry because you may burn wires

Pull box out ""unplug box"" empty frezer including storage baskets,place ice maker in off remove ice cube box, do not remove ice maker, useing nut driver loosen side rail screws about 1/4"slide basket rails in or out and pull to center of box should slip off screws, remove light bulb cover & bulb, remove 4 screws holding ice worm drive motor "" hold "" will fall it is atached to a electrial plug un plug and lay aside,unscrew back panle screws 4 left 4 right on back cover, " remove hiden screw at top center of back panel and pull up and pry out at bottom silde out downwerds,remove cross plates one center one bottom these hold defoster bars, unwind wires center defroster bar somewhat difecult bottom one just slide down unplug from panel at top behind where ice cube drive was located, replace new defroster assm reasemble defroster bars into cross bars wind in & plug up new wires behind cooling fins being carefule not to cut or nick wires of bend cooling fins replace screws,wires are 1 small plug 1 large,reinstall back panle top center screw first don't tighten aline side screw holes replace side screws then tighten top screw. Replace drive motor being sure to conect,replace bulb,bulb cover,side railes,bens,ice cube box & put ice maker lever in on poss. Plug box in weight 8 to 10 hours with box set at mfg 's starting settings. Should work like a charm.

It wasn't quite as easy to get to the bolts as the video showed. The lay out of the part wasn't exactly like the video either. However, I managed to put the new part in. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem. At first the fridge cycled on and off but after 12 hrs it started to freeze liquids again. Since the appliance was 17 years old we opted to just get a new one.

Easy disassemble removing screws to separate front of ice bin.Be sure to note how metal rod is attached to rear of ice bin. Installed drive ring and reattached face (front) of ice bin in about 15 minutes.

I pulled the dispenser bin and emptied the existing ice (the maker worked, the dispenser would not dispense). Though there appears to be more, there are about 4 (reciting from memory)very small tap screws holding the front of the dispenser unit to the bin. The dispenser activation screw mounts over protruding items at each end. The item at the back (away from the dispenser gear package) is the drive ring that was broken. The drive ring is a small plastic cup that inserts into an opening at the back of the bin (female side to the rear) and slides into the distal end of the activation screw on the same end. One must line up the small slot on the inside of the drive ring with the end of the screw. Slide the assembly together (make sure that the cube/crush switch rod is properly clipped in place with the return spring hooked to the clip), GENTLY install the 4 or so screws and return he assembly to the freezer. It should work flawlessly. Elapsed time: 15 - 20 minutes.

Easy repair - Don't over complicate it. 1) Flip up ice bar to stop making new ice. 2) Pull out the complete ice bin/tray. 3) shut freezer door while you work on the ice bin. 4) All you need to do is remove the 4 screws holding the ice bin holding tray to the front of the Ice cutting section in the front. 5) Screw drive can then be pulled forward to remove the old/broken white drive cap. Just replace the White Drive ring, put the drive screw back into the ice bin tray and re-install the 4 screws. 6) When re-inserting the bin, you may have to twist the screw drive slightly to re-align with the motor bracket in the back of the freezer. Suggestion: throw out old ice because if it is wet or slightly melted, when you put it back in the freezer the ice will freeze/clump together into a large ice clump; not cubes. Also dry out the ice bin so there is no water to freeze up or create a new jam when the ice bin now re-freezes.

removed torx screws and replaced ice bin drive ring.

Problem caused by ice cubes falling out of ice bin and collecting at rear and interfering with ice dispenser drive. Broke plactic drive ring. Pull down 2 clips at front bottom of ice bin. Pull ice bin out. Dump ice cubes. Remove 8 star drive screws to allow case to move far enough to clear broken drive ring. Replace drive ring. Reinstall and tighten 8 screws. Install ice bin. Correct loose right side ice cube retainer board to prevent cubes from falling out of ice bin.

I found the condenser fan was not working so I bought a new condenser fan kit and installed it. Fixed!

Removed bad motor with socket set and pliers then removed the connectors from the old motor and soldered them on the new one. Then installed new motor. Works like new! Problem Solved! Easy fix!

Given that the augur motor had broken away from the ice tray, removal of the ice tray was simple. Simply remove one screw and slide the tray up and out. Removal of the motor was simple by squeezing the top and bottom of the wire harness plug located on the back of the freezer compartment wall, although it was by feel. The real problem came with trying to remove the augur from the motor shaft (it has a left hand tread) it is on tight and while trying to remove it – I stripped the threads on the motor shaft and couldn’t get the augur off. That’s when the cussing started. No easy fix for this so in addition to the ice tray, I had to order a new ice bucket auger drive motor kit (which included the augur for the end of the motor shaft). Once all the parts arrived, and I had the motor and solenoid assembled and mounted to the back of the tray, the hardest part was plugging the motor back into the plug on the back of the freezer wall- you’ll be doing this by feel (which is a poor design). One suggestion, take a picture of the wire connections between the motor and solenoid – just to be on the safe side – before taking it all apart.