20214 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the back of the stove for easy access to the wiring (three hex head screws) and removed the two wire leads. Then I began to remove the mounting screws from the inside of the oven, the first three screws came out fine the last one was so tight that I had to resort to vise grip pliers. Jenn-Air should have used hex head screws instead of phillips head inside the oven. Finally after about 15 minutes the last screw came out. I installed the new element, reinstalled the screws and wires. Then I replaced the back and tested. Total about 45 minutes.

My husband and I couldn't believe we were able to do this!!!So easy! We were dancing around the kitchen!!!!! We credit the advice of other do-it-yourselfers. Very accurate and true. It took less than 10 minutes after the screws were WD40'd. In addition, we recommend: use a flashlight to see in the oven since it's dark with the power cut off , and use this time to clean behind the stove!!!!!

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Shut off electrical breaker to stove. Unscrew & remove heating element with standard screwdriver. Since screw threads were stripped I used a longer screw I wrapped thread with teflon tape. Connect new heating element & crimp connectors to ensure contact is made, push wires back & tighten screws. Turn power breaker back on & we have a new oven!

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order.
it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

takes two people to put the oven door back in place but otherwise very simple as long as you keep all your screws and pads in place

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

We unplugged the range from the wall first so as not to get electrocuted. We removed the face of the control panel by removing the screws and 2 hex nuts underneath that hold it in place, and removed the trim. Then we disconnected the malfunctioning control switch, taking note of what order the wires go in. Hooked the new switch up and popped it through the face of the control panel. We then put the trim back, and reattached the control panel with the screws. Very easy!!

I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!

Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:

Turned off breakers.
Grabbed a beer.
Removed two screws holding in plate.
Removed electrical connectors.
Removed two screws holding switch.
Put new switch in place with screws.
Reattached connectors.
Reseated plate & screws.
Turned on power & tested.
Finished beer and felt very manly.

The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.

Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.

Very simple---shut off the power, removed six screws, detached five wires, replaced control switch, put everything back together, turned on power and made husband happy!!!

1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop.
2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear.
3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel.
4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch
5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop.
6. Tested new switch...worked great.

It was easy. Just remove the two screws, gently pull the housing out, remove the two wiring clips, and then reverse the process with the replacement.